Not sure if you can do it without removing the plastic guard inside the dissy, but that's only 3 screws. The arm just hooks onto the pickup plate from underneath. Being able to see roughly where it hooks on is a bonus.
Does the distributor need to be removed to replace the vacuum advance on the side or can it be done in place? Does the cap and internals need to be removed to disengage/engage it?
Not sure if you can do it without removing the plastic guard inside the dissy, but that's only 3 screws. The arm just hooks onto the pickup plate from underneath. Being able to see roughly where it hooks on is a bonus.
I guess that you are already aware of it, but be careful removing the rotor arm, as if you allow it to pull the shaft up there is a very good chance that the mechanical advance springs will be dislodged. And then you have a fiddly job trying to put them back on. I always use a screwdriver or similar to hold the shaft down while removing the rotor arm.
Genuine question: I have noticed on here that people refer to the rotor arm as "the button". I am now 73 years old and probably removed my first one on a tractor when I was around 10 years old. I also served my time as an electrical fitter, and to me the "button" is the carbon brush in the center of the dizzy cap.
Probably yes, but easier to do on the bench or with dissy held in a vice so you can see what your doing easier. As said ^^ be careful removing rotor arm, retaining clip on dissy shaft is easily damaged.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
A reminder that a proper clip repair is cheap and relatively easy:
Lucas V8 dissy nylon clip repair method.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
Removed cap, remove rotor, remove the plastic cap, unscrew 2 external vacuum to dissy screws, disengage vacuum arm from cam , pretty easy with dissy in vehicle when I did mine.
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