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Thread: My dream Disco..... just purchased

  1. #1
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    My dream Disco..... just purchased

    Hi Y'all,

    I have recently purchased a Series I 300 TDi manual from Diesel Dan on the forum. We drove it home and are so excited to get it registered. It needs a bit of work: A swivel hub seal, steering box seal kit, a replacement LH headlight and hopefully not much else. It is my dream spec: a manual 300 TDi with 390,000ks on the clock. It is a tribute to Dan's committed maintenance as it is such good nick. The only problem is my wife now wants it.......

    It is leaking through the windscreen. Is this common? Would it just need to be re glued back onto the frame at a windscreen place?


  2. #2
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    When I bought mine it leaked through both the windscreen and rear alpine windows. Turns out it is a common rust spot if previous windscreen repair wasn't quite up to scratch. I ended up getting the rust along the top of the windscreen treated when I welded up the rusty alpine windows and then re-sprayed the roof. No more rust in either spot and good for another 20 years. You will notice the alpine windows on the D2's have a different rubber seal so I guess they learnt from the D1's.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the advice.

  4. #4
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    Windscreens leaking is an issue from the Range Rover Classic days!
    My RRC leaked like a sieve, settled all the water onto the drivers footwell and rusted it to high heaven.

    Is your leak top of screen or bottom?

    I'd get a windscreen fitter to come to you and remove it, gives you the chance to inspect the frame at the same time and if it's not rusted out then maybe a reseal could fix it.

    A few months back(last winter) my dad's Ford Exploder had a massive screen leak above.
    It seemed that with a garden hose test, more water came in from the top of the screen, than my brother was blasting at the car! I got drenched, only expecting a trickle.

    We took headlining off and I just blasted the entire inside of the screen with a tube of sealant from Sika. Can't remember which one to be exact tho. There was a small amount left in the tube and I took off the badly worn rubber seal from the top of the screen, and forced the rest of the sealant up into the gap between glass and roof.

    Stopped it completely
    Looked as ugly as a finish could get tho .. but all he wanted on the hack was to drive it without a wet bum!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  5. #5
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    You cannot practically remove and replace a D1 windscreen - it will very likely crack. You're lucky if you can reuse the trims (which cost as much as the windscreen).

    You are better off locating the leak, lifting the seal, clearing the rust, and squeezing high flex PU (e.g., sika black) into the seam. It can look very clean if you do it right and last a long time.

    Alpine windows are comparatively easy. Pull the compression thread, push the window out, pull the seal, clean up rust (and weld if bad), paint, refit seal with PU around the repair, refit window, and push the compression thread in with the special tool, or with a homemade version (e.g., coathanger wire twisted into a loop).

  6. #6
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    If you are will to wait, you can still get windscreen seals from the Uk. I've been looking for alpine window seals and found they are available at John Craddocks. It's worth looking round at the various uk specialist as some will say parts are no longer available,, but you can often find them at another place and considerably cheaper than buying here, even with postage.

    Land Rover Discovery 1 Glass & Regulators | John Craddock Ltd

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by damienb View Post
    You cannot practically remove and replace a D1 windscreen - it will very likely crack. You're lucky if you can reuse the trims (which cost as much as the windscreen).

    You are better off locating the leak, lifting the seal, clearing the rust, and squeezing high flex PU (e.g., sika black) into the seam. It can look very clean if you do it right and last a long time.

    Alpine windows are comparatively easy. Pull the compression thread, push the window out, pull the seal, clean up rust (and weld if bad), paint, refit seal with PU around the repair, refit window, and push the compression thread in with the special tool, or with a homemade version (e.g., coathanger wire twisted into a loop).
    I'd like to what the special tool looks like or your home made one. I recently removed the compression thread so I could have a good look under the seal as I suspected rust was hiding there, which it was. took about 30 seconds to remove and then 2 hours of stuffing around back in with a plastic trim tool and in the process, it slipped and I found another rust spot that actually punched right through the roof!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony View Post
    If you are will to wait, you can still get windscreen seals from the Uk. I've been looking for alpine window seals and found they are available at John Craddocks. It's worth looking round at the various uk specialist as some will say parts are no longer available,, but you can often find them at another place and considerably cheaper than buying here, even with postage.

    Land Rover Discovery 1 Glass & Regulators | John Craddock Ltd
    Beware that that part is for early Discos (up to vin MA...).

    Won't fit a 96 or later that I know of.

    Tom.
    1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
    1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony View Post
    I'd like to what the special tool looks like or your home made one. I recently removed the compression thread so I could have a good look under the seal as I suspected rust was hiding there, which it was. took about 30 seconds to remove and then 2 hours of stuffing around back in with a plastic trim tool and in the process, it slipped and I found another rust spot that actually punched right through the roof!
    the tool head is the same shape as the rubber expander you are trying to feed in, made of about 2.5mm spring steel. the rubber expander slide threw this as you drag it around a well lubricated valley to replace, so it looks like a curvy bit of sring steel going into a wooden handle, there should be a couple in the shed from doing screens on tractors although havnt seen them for a long time. somewhere like super cheap may have them or a mate that works for a windscreen joint (that's how I got mine)

  10. #10
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    Yes, looks like this:
    4151o5-Jx9L.jpg

    I just bend one up when I need it out of fencing wire.

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