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I had the dissy a part and cleaned it all and checked it all over and done the screw mod/fix even though the plastic clip was intact still surprisingly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick1970
I'm not getting spark from coil atm when I hold it near the block I get no spark so the problem is before the dissy I guess.
The dissy was working fine before when it was getting power from the coil. Even if the module was cactus i still should get a spark from coil to dissy or the block.
If there is a problem with pickup in dissy, will get zip from the coil.
Check everything in order, don't lose your cool, it's not rocket science.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical...ml#post2085761
Lol I ain't losing my cool at it, it's just annoying I get no time after work at the moment I only get like 30 mins then it's too dark and cold lolQuote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Good troubleshooting write up i followed the RAVE manual when it first started playing up and all was good but now I've changed a few things so I'll go over it all again and check it all over. Cheers
I would make SURE the earth is good mate!!
While Bee Uteys bosch conversion is gold.
I dont think its the problem here mate.
I have the bee utey setup on my car, even when you wire it incorrect you will get spark but erratic. Like changing the 2 wires to the dizzy around at the amp will change the spark timing.
If you get power directly to your coil you bypass a lot of potential trouble yea. Immobilizer, ignition, bad wiring etc. So connect direct from battery to coil.
Then if im not mistaken all we need to make spark is the air gap set correctly and a rotor button ofcourse to direct it.
Given you DID have spark before pulling down the dizzy i would expect its likely the airgap. Play with it and see if you cant bring it too life.
As your now aware the dizzy is pretty basic, not much can really go wrong in there.
Always good to double check connectors to your new amplifier also.
If i was a little closer i would come over and help! But 100 odd kms is a little far and i have no reason to go to melbourne at the moment.
Good luck man. I feel your pain mate. Working in the dark makes the simple tasks difficult.
I'm going to wait until the weekend now so I can really get into it. I'm going to redo the LR wiring it's got a series of connectors like 4 in a row from the module kit someone put in it which can just be just be cut and joined as one. A few other things that look a bit old.
I don't think it's the gap I checked it properly but I will go over it. My main concern is the coil and wiring.
I know the falcon coil and module was working fine so I really doubt they are faulty. I'll just re do with new wire, its all been thrown in so it could do with a neaten up.
Will keep you posted im sure with all the help I'll get it going it's not my 1st rodeo just my 1st D1 :)
Try the starter motor if you turn the key and it appears dead as a dodo.[bighmmm]
Nah not the starter mate she cranks fine it ain't firing :( I need a go over the ignition wiring I fried something washing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grahame Roberts
I sunk it pretty bad a week earlier, was running fine afterwards and no dramas a few days later. But could i have killed something in the front kickpanels after washing it maybe shorted a relay when trying to start it?
I had water at the top of map pocket on drivers door and up even higher on the passengers. Not up to the glove box though lucky lol
I know i said check air gap earlier.
Something i felt i should add.
I have pulled my dizzy out many times and rebuilt. Never gauged the air gap, just adjusted enough so it did not hit the star thing. Close as possible basically. Never had a problem with it EVER.
The dizzy is basic as you have found out, so rule that out i recon.
Wiring from ignition to amp is my guess. Something between there anyway. Thats why i said bypass it. Direct to coil then the coil must be getting juice. From coil to amp and from amp to dizzy. Rewire them if you must mate. Just temp wires to check results.
When i did the bee utey upgrade i replaced the old wiring to the amp, remounted the amp on the firewall. Still had the same issues as you stated.
Chased this bastard for a good 2 years to be honest. Heat sinks on the amp, earth points and on and on. For me it was a problem between the ignition and amp. Still not actually sure where but thats where i isolated it to.
I know im not much help man, just trying my best though, hoping you dont have the stress filled chase i did, nothing worse than driving a couple hundred ks to get to a small river crossing, cross it then car dies for a day. HAD IT HAPPEN!!!!!! very frustrating.
As i said before man, i am watching this thread with great interest as i suspect others are and will so do post your results mate.