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Thread: 3.9 V8 ran hot yesterday....what now?

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,755
    The usual trick to fixing a failed VC unit was to screw in a couple of short tek screws at 180° locations relative to each other through the VC body.
    That locks it up good and proper!

    Had to do that whilst on the road with brothers petrol/gas patrol as it overheated all the way from Melb to Mitta Mitta. I ended up towing his trailer so that we could get some movement happening.
    Don't ask Nissan for a replacement tho! We found a replacement out in Albury once we had settled at camp a day or so later.
    (actually turned out to be more of an ordeal than just the VC tho)

    I think I got my Tdi VC for less than $100 from Mario, I see that the V8 one is roughly the same, and I remember the Repco one cost bro a bit more than $150 or maybe closer to $200 .. which I thought was a bit much for a so called common vehicle/part!

    So if you were to try to fix 'er up .. I'd say do the tek screw hack.
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    11,184
    So if you were to try to fix 'er up .. I'd say do the tek screw hack.
    Be careful if you have a white fan, as they like to throw blades when going fast and it ain't pretty.
    You have to check for cracks at the base of each blade.
    The black ones are better as they are glass filled plastic.

    Regards Philip A

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    7,201
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I once saw a test where the tester dynod a Land Rover with viscous fan and estimated that the fan drew 6BHP when locked.
    6BHP equates to about 200AMPs.

    Now how many amps do your electric fans draw?

    Much to it would seem your surprise this conversion has been done many many times over the years and in many cases resulted in the modifier changing back after an initial drive on sand or up steep hills on a hot day.

    What is happening with your aircon fans also. Do you still have them in place? Lots of people manually switch the fans to assist the viscous.

    Regards Philip A
    Seen that done on many different vehicles.

    Why stuff around with what works,put the viscous back on,they aren't that expensive,are generally very reliable,all done and finished.
    There is often tell tale oil marks on the fan hub as the fluid leaks out which often causes the failure,so check every service if worried.

    Keep it simple and reliable.
    paul

    D4 MY12 white,2.7(with a few more killer wasps) rear air,e diff,xenons,arb bar,7 seat ,18" bfg KO2

    2009 Defender 110 (son's)ARB
    bar,snorkle,rocksliders,rack,KM2's,BAS chip, always needs a wash

    '56 S1,been in the family since...'56

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,755
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Be careful if you have a white fan, as they like to throw blades when going fast and it ain't pretty.
    ....
    Regards Philip A
    LOL! Happened to one of my SD1's. Can't remember exactly which one(I've had quite a few) but it had a metal fan fixed(ie. non VC).

    Was driving out west near Ararat(260klms from home) and I heard a metallic tingle/bonk/then rattle under the car.
    One fan blade had separated dented the bonnet, and flung itself out from under the car. The normally nice smooth V8 went decidedly dieselly on me. very rough idle.
    For the first few minutes I couldn't think of what's happened, just never occurred to me that a metal fan would break like that.
    To keep car going I had then break a fan blade off the opposing side to smooth out the fan. Kept speed quite low on the drive home.

    Fan was off an earlier P6B model as I think parts man Tim reckons the SD1's only had plastic/VC fans.
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

  5. #55
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Churchill, Victoria
    Posts
    928
    Those aircon fans on the D1 seem to stand up to time ok. And they are in principal the same as thermos yes? Small granted but they do last a bloody long time.
    Ramblings of a crazy man aka Andrew.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,755
    Quote Originally Posted by DAMINK View Post
    .... Small granted but they do last a bloody long time.
    Made by Denso, not some useless UK Co.!!

    I reckon they are the main culprit to air flow impediment through to the radiator. The hubs on 'em are far too large considering how close they are to the condenser.
    And then there's the silly location of the receiver dryer, smack bang in the middle.

    I reckon there's a good reason why they changed the D2's condenser fan to a single larger fan unit.

    I'm planning on changing my A/C fans to something less restrictive some day.
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2
    Ouch.

    That the Buick V8 sheds debris (metal/corrosion?) into the radiator passages with the wrong coolant is not new.


    The Strange Tale of the Buick Special, Buick-Rover V8, and 3800 V6 > Ate Up With Motor


    Rover V8 engine - Wikipedia

    Discovery radiators have narrow tubes which doesn't help.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    2

    Part 2

    My experience of radiator blockage is switching on of condensor fans in normal driving. Gets worse with time.
    Electric fans are hopeless IMO, best setup for Discovery isoriginal setup – radiator in GC, VC fan & cowling.
    Typical sign of blockage is cool spots detected by hand on the radiator finsafter a short drive to heat things up. Light spray from hose if too much heatsoak from engine. Can even detect a temperaturegradient across inlet to outlet if blockage. Other option is to buy/ borrow IR gun.
    Other problem can be that the blocked zone corresponds withthe aluminium hub of the VC, VC needs airflow to properly engage. Worsens overheatingissue.
    Also, if radiator is blocked, coolant seeks out alternatepassages including via the reservoir leading to overfilling & looks like ahead gasket leak.
    Over the counter preparations donÂ’t work.Tried it. DonÂ’t like putting hot chemicals inthe aluminium block either.Try boilingcaustic solution in an aluminium saucepan.
    After much google research, my fix is citric acid wash of radiator (only).Works for brass/copper versions. Remove radiator, place across two trestles, jugof hot water andteaspoon of citricacid. Shake. Two washes. Rinse well.
    Purchase citric acid at Mercedes dealer ( have the same problem)or Woolworths/Coles.
    Refill with original coolant for model year.
    In my case, Tectaloy long lifegreen concentrate ( type A organic 1065g/l 95% ethelyene glycol)
    Checked for neutral pH ( pH7) with pH stick. Some are quitealkaline, OK for cast iron.
    OK for a few years, no further blockages.
    DYOR

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