I’ve function tested all the important relays and harness. Found nothing of any interest.
Tested to function of the tps with an analogue ohm meter for the fun of it. It tests as I’d expect. However I did tug on the harness a little when removing it, it started ok but then started coughing and spluttering, couldn’t decide where it wanted to idle then died as I moved the harness. It’s stone cold and won’t start now so I’ll be tested the harness next.
Mine has factory fitted O2 sensors, it also has one of those weird, if I recall correctly 3 holes, sockets. You can read the ABS faults, and the alarm system. but still not the ECU. All of the sensor inputs are voltages, so can be read with a DVM. The after market "ECU Mate" will show all the inputs as the algorithm just converts them to a graphical display. Maybe some of the others will also do that also, I do not know.Quote:
The reader is far more useful when o2 sensors are fitted
Clean the plug on the MAF, then get a pair of long nose pliers and twist the male contacts GENTLY about 10-15 degrees. This ensures a good contact.
Regards Philip A
Just having a guess because it hasnt been mentioned. Have you checked the inertia switch? I doubt the LPG will be linked to it though.
Cheers Jim
I’ve had MAF out and thoroughly cleaned it and it’s plug. I’ve tightened the female terminals, never heard of giving the male pins a little twist, I’ll consider that before I rip out the harness.
I’ve checked the inertia switch multiple times.
Just thought id ask just incase you never know. Sounds like the same issues I was having after I washed the engine bay. Ran around all the same circles you are, I still don't know 100% sure what fixed it. I put it down to either the original amplifier which for i know could still be fine or some dodgy connectors going to the coil. I recently found out one is a resistor not just a dodgy joiner maybe I fried that. In the middle of those joiners is the resistor, I just put in a joiner. I havnt replaced it but I changed to the Bosch amp anyway do I doubt it's needed. If you have the same looking plugs maybe try a joiner instead you never know it could be anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve269
Cheers Jim https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...87b4d1f79d.jpg
That resistor is important.
Source Lucas 14CUX Fuel Injection System – Installation and Diagnostic Notes. - ACT Performance Products - your source for after market TVR upgrades, components and performance accessories.Quote:
There is considerable variation according to application so please check for the correct version for your vehicle. If the vehicle is modified then the supplier of the modified ECU software should have specified the correct tune resistor to use.
Wire Colour Catalyst
OperationCommon Application Red Australian 3.9 Green Europe & UK 3.9 (or 3.5 Disco) Yellow Gulf States 3.9, or Europe & UK 4.2 Blue Gulf States 3.9, or Europe & UK 4.2 White Europe & UK 3.9 (or 3.5 Disco)
AFAIK from looking ,you are talking about the tune resistor which is attached to the ECU under the seat not in the engine bay.Quote:
That resistor is important.
I have an OZ one if anyone wants it, as I changed to a UK one when I fitted the O2 sensors. I found it in a toolbox a couple of days ago.
Regards Philip A
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
You could well be correct Philip.
I do recall this exact resistor he is showing. Its near the airbox area.
There is a resistor in the signal line between the coil negative post and the ECU and it is indeed near the coil. I'm not sure how important it is but then again I've never seen any good reason to remove it.