I read that you tested the TPS already but did you adjust it? I like most have slotted the holes. Or adjust your MAF? What timing are you running? And do you have the 14cux injection booklet? Maybe your base idle needs adjusting also. All these things randomly need adjusting now and then lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Steve269
Cheers Jim
Before changing the base idle, clean out the throttle body and the throttle blade. oily gunk can build up on it from the crankcase ventilation.
After you have done that look at the base idle which should be 550-600RPM. You adjust by blocking off both sides of the stepper, and turning the screw on the throttle body , out for more.
The stepper should then compensate for the AC.
Maybe replace the load relay also, although never really heard of this as a problem.
the stuff above will not affect running other than idle.
Regards Philip A
You would know better than I with these, but it seems that it's warming up fine then dying and won't restart till everything's filled down. Dosnt it sound like MAF adjusting symptoms? Otherwise I'd say amp or coil overheating but he's changed them.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Cheers Jim
I would replace the relay, also look for wiring faults due to a LPG EFI cutoff relay either present or removed. I had a car come in a month ago with a very similar problem where a LPG cut to the injector feed was rejoined with a non waterproof connector, and that was corroded.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve269
Well yes but I was just referring to it stalling with aircon on and it only takes a few minutes to clean the throttle body etc.Quote:
but it seems that it's warming up fine then dying and won't restart till everything's filled down. Dosnt it sound like MAF adjusting symptoms? Otherwise I'd say amp or coil overheating but he's changed them.
His main problem certainly sounds like something to do with ignition.
The MAF, I don't know. the motor will run with the MAF adjusted over a wide range. It's just that the CO will be high if the MAF has too much initial voltage . In fact you adjust the MAF to 1volt when you fit o2 sensors. I don't know if he has checked the MAF by putting a multimeter across the signal and earth and seeing if the value rises with the engine revs.
It could be anything even the ignition switch having a bad contact which heats up or the power relay.
Another more common problem is the bunch of in line resistors just near the battery. (whoops RRC talk there . I don't know if later D1 has them)
Regards Philip A
Maybe also check that the injectors are getting power when the car stops. Each bank fires all at once so a short or bad connection in the loom could stop it.
IÂ’ve made a little progress, found the main engine Relay had cooked itself, checked harness etc no obvious reason why it had other than old age. Replaced that not expecting any miracles.
Continued testing all engine sensor circuits and attempted to trace the gas system circuit but that needs more time and thought.
IÂ’ve found when doing a continuity test of the TPS circuit that two of the wires are arse about. According to my Hains manual the red/black wire from ecu goes to blue on tps and yellow from ecu goes to green on tps. However IÂ’ve found they are crossed at the tps end of the harness. Will this confuse the ecu or is it that basic itÂ’s not going to bother it?
IÂ’ve also checked if power to injectiors while running on gas, there is power to the A bank but I didnÂ’t have enough time to see if they were firing or not before the engine cut out again. MAF also has power to it while on Gas.
This is the 14cux manual it's for RRCbut it's the same system. Have you got the RAVE Manuel or just the haines Manuel?
https://o.b5z.net/i/u/6064257/f/14cu..._injection.pdf
You need to check that the TPS produces a varying voltage with throttle position on the plain red wire in the engine loom. The other wire should be a steady +5V from the ECU.
Thanks for the replies.
I’ve got the hard copy Hains manual and the 14CUX on PDF set up on my phones book thingo app.
I’ll check those voltages later when I get it running again.
Since my last comment I had to change my focus to getting my EH Holden Special ready to drive down to country Victoria for a friends wedding.
In a last ditched effort to find the problem I ended up pulling the dizy apart in situ to test and asses individual components. I found that the ignition pick up was in fact out of spec resistance wise and the friction springs in the base plate were broken as well as some average wires I missed the first time.
I found a used genuine distributor at a wreckers interstate and it’s solved the problem and it came with the remote mounted amplifier set up as well.
My other options were limited to replacement britpart dizy, get another powerspark dizy, some other unknown brand pick up or a scorcher dizy. The Scorcher option is still one I’m open to for the future.
I’ve found a few other parts that will need attention in the future.
The one good thing that can out of this saga is the fact that I got to enjoy a bit more use of my EH Holden and Series 3 Lightweight.