Reply With QuoteFound deep in the footwell of the front passenger, under dash. Often has cracked or dry solder joints, fixed with a touch up of the soldering iron.Originally Posted by ezyrama
Wizard
Hello All
My son bought a very tidy 98 D1 about 6 months ago, The rear window switches on the centre console seem to have a mind of their own. Sometimes they work and sometimes they dont.
Do they go directly from the switches to each individual window or do the go via relays or a control module in the deepest recesses behind the dash.
I had one many moons ago but haven't worked on one for yonks.
Thx Ian
1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000
You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!
Wizard
SupporterFound deep in the footwell of the front passenger, under dash. Often has cracked or dry solder joints, fixed with a touch up of the soldering iron.
Wizard
Easy fix, there is 1 joint that goes bad/dry on the control module. It lives behind the glove box, i was gonna post a link to the fix but the URL is now gonehave a google for it "Discovery 1 window switch dry solder joint" somthing like that should find it. Its a 5 minute job hardest part is getting the board out, its held on by clips dont touch the screws!
Cheers Jim
Wizard
Found some pics, good luck
Wizard
Thx Jim, much appreciated.Found some pics, good luck
Cheers Ian
1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000
You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!
Wizard
No Dramas! If I remember correctly you have to pull the plugs out first which can be painful to get a grip on the clips, then the surround around the plugs unclips with a little screwdriver. Then the circuit board should simply slide out on its own. Then reinstall in reverse, circuit board, surround clipped back in then the plugs.
This photo shows the plastic surround already removed, you can see the edge of the circuit board there.
Spend a few mins on the solder to get it right, mine failed after a week. Since doing it again it hasnt stuffed up, I hadnt touched a soldering iron to a circuit board since high school so I wasnt surprised it failed 🤣🤣
Wizard
Thx Jim
Ill try and have a go this weekend. I dont do much on PCB's these days, in my game, most guys
just throw them away and replace them now. I'll have to brush up on my soldering skills
Regards Ian
1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000
You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!
Wizard
Hey Guys.... just opening up an old post....
The Drivers Window is having the same issue now as not being able to raise/lower. I had previously fixed the dry solder joint some time ago, but now it seems to be back and effecting other windows... Would love to totally bypass this circuit board and just install a momentary Toggle Switch to solve this PC board issues... Not sure if that is possible or whether someone has already done this ?? Using the existing wiring - can u modify it to bypass the printed PC board??
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