Thread: Centre diff light beginning of mods - Anyone fitted a davies electric water pump tdi

Firstly, used the diff lock almost all weekend on the tracks. Had difficulty to engage the diff lock on and then off again, could only describe it as recalcitrant!

Did you put the gearbox in Neutral?

Regards Philip A

Gearbox in neutral for diff lock?
I've never found difflock to be difficult to move across.
SO, if that's the issue(that actual movement of the lever) maybe get under and give it a spray/clean/etc to try to free up the linkages. D1 uses hard rods and pivots as the linkage mechanisms.
If the hard comment means it wouldn't engage for a long time, or wouldn't disengage for a long time whilst your moving .. I think this can be normal.

I sometimes see the same issue, but usually don't. 99% of the time, diff locks/unlocks quickly after lever has been moved sideways. Very occasionally it does take some time.
I THINK! .. not 100% certain, could be sometimes on harder gravel I may get a long delay between moving lever and light on/off.
I remember a few times doing either, where I re engaged/disengaged the diff lock again, thinking/hoping it may do what it's instructed too, but nup! .. just does it's own thing as it feels the need, but always comes good.

Hi/low tho .. as Philips said, gearbox in neutral is better than clutch in and in gear .. but that's for high/low, not diff lock.

The diff lock is a quite coarse dog clutch like a locker diff .

If the dogs are on top of each other it sometimes will not engage until there is enough speed difference between front and rear axles to make the dog clutches drop in. The selector shaft has a spring which holds the dogs against each other until they drop in. Zig zag.

If there is stress on the engaged dogs then they may not unlock until the stress is relieved, by zig zagging/reversing or similar.

If the diff lock lever is physically difficult to move across then it may be the linkage or that the grub screw that locks the detent ball into the notch in the selector is a bit too tight, but it is a bugger to reach unless you remove the centre console. Most likely dry/rusted linkage. The D2 has a cable which is better and quieter.
Regards Philip A

Thanks gents, the issue is certainly one of stiffness not necessarily engagement when selected. Just went outside and did a rowing workout of sorts, it has loosened somewhat, sort of like a non distinct clud, not bad but no snick, thinking it may now be more normal.

Is there some way of using a long "pipe" to get wd40 down to the linkage? This cable linkage is it able to be used on a D2 with no linkages or would you use the D1 linkage set or even retrofit it to the D1?

This cable linkage is it able to be used on a D2 with no linkages or would you use the D1 linkage set or even retrofit it to the D1?

And you thought gold and platinum were expensive and hen's teeth were rare!
I was lucky and paid only $500 for mine for my 2002 D2 and also got "the sticker"
I haven't had experience with the D1 linkage but AFAIK the only advantage is that the cable one is quieter.ie it doesn't transmit as much noise as the D1.
Regards Philip A

Lack of use can cause them to get stiff. It's a good idea to regularly put it in low range, lock the centre diff, drive a distance so everything moves and is lubricated. Using neutral is best.

Are D1 300 TDi's meant to have noise emanating from mechanical components, hmmmmmm - just went opened up the window, listened and it's quieter than a mouse! Will listen hard for this, noise, next time I start it up LOL

Certainly hope to keep this in and out of low range and diff lock regularly, already thinking Easter is too far away, but will get and lubricate the linkages and others points in the coming weeks

Originally Posted by RRT

Are D1 300 TDi's meant to have noise emanating from mechanical components, hmmmmmm - just went opened up the window, listened and it's quieter than a mouse! Will listen hard for this, noise, next time I start it up LOL

....

News to me!
I can't hear nothing! ... except the screaming/rattling/groaning/grinding/chattering .. engine noise.

Road noise has recently been eliminated from the tyres (new set), so there's a 1% difference in cruising comfort.

I'd just get a sacrificial small can of WD or something and just go nuts around the top of the transfer/gearbox area ... and hope you hit at least something.

You said you did a "rowing" workout of sorts. Does that mean fore/aft or front back workout?
Remember front rear action is high low range. You should get a bit of clunky sound/feeling from that.
But diff lock(CDL) is left(lock) right(unlock) .. and you shouldn't get any obvious feeling or sound ... at least I never have in my D1, no RRC(after I fitted the LT77/LT230 combo).

I'm pretty sure I've seen folks use a modded D1 mechanism in their D2's. If I can locate the web pages, I'll post the link.
This is what I have planned for brothers D2(eventually).