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Thread: Properly stuck rear half shaft

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Vic
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    Properly stuck rear half shaft

    Morning all.
    So turns out I didn't do up my wheels bearings tight enough. So I thought I'd tighten up properly at camp.
    Except for the half shaft is properly stuck in what we are guessing Is the diff.
    30kms of sealed roads prior I had the whole thing apart and nothing untoward had happened.

    I'm wondering what you guys have done in the past to get it out.

    What I have tried so far
    4 screw drivers to wedges it out (broke 2)
    Hammers including sledge hammer
    Driving around with the half shaft bolts loose hoping to pop it out
    Shimmed it so the play was minimal in the bearing and off road for a day.
    Spin wheels forwards and reverse
    Broke a 60mm pry bar
    Crow bar
    Big slide hammer
    Cold chisel - most success so far but gap is too big to be effective now

    Before you ask....
    Bearings don't touch the half shaft the hub moves on the stub axel, it has nothing to do with this.
    Has a new stub axel seal with the metal ring, if it was this I would imagine it would have given in by now.
    The other side comes out perfect no tools required
    I can't take the plate off it's a banjo diff
    The half shaft has backwards forwards play (taking up back lash) in it's 'all the way in' position
    When I have it as far out as I can it doesn't have this movement, however I can put some bolts in the holes and use a pry bar to rotate it.
    It was a brand new stub axel 30kms ago
    It's about 1cm out at the minute


    Any ideas would be appreciated
    Thanks
    Matt

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    take out the good side,

    grab a lenght of steel conduit, cut 2 slots the diameter of the cross pin into the conduit and about 15cms long in one end of the conduit

    unbolt the dud side.

    slide the conduit into the axle tube from the good side,

    encourage it with the knock-o-meter as someone tries to lever the flange gently on the bad side.

    you may have more sucess if you extend the flange bolts on the dud side and have someone slowly turn the propshaft as you whack at the conduit.

    OR...

    as its about to snap anyway, bolt it all up and give it riz till it breaks and THEN change it out.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Logan,Queensland
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    If your still haven't fixed it, and its a 300 tdi, you could try this.
    At the bell housing to engine mount brackets there are 2 bolts at each side.
    These are m10, remove 1 from each side.
    Remove 2 exhaust manifold nuts, or 2 from the exhaust manifold to down pipe, both are m10.

    Place the nut into the gap you have already made at the drive flange and screw the bolt in. Probably best to go onto the flat of the hub and not into the threaded hole.
    If you use 2 or 3 bolts it will give some mechanical advantage.
    I wouldn't use the drive flange bolts for this as they are fairly soft and may snap.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

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