The bypass plug is relatively cheap. Getting to the unit is PITA.
Guys...
I've got a 1996 Disco-1 Tdi300 Auto and for probably close to 6-12mths ago the remote stopped unlocking the doors (new battery inside Key fob). I just had to use the key to unlock doors and then use the key to start as per normal... no worries I thought....
My daughter has now got her licence and been driving the old disco to school and back for a few weeks w/o any problems until today when wanting to come home, it would not start with the key (Auto in Park/Handbrake on - Not a flat start battery).
I made way to where she was parked and did a few checks - 12volt @ IP Fuel shut-off solenoid with ignition ON. Checked for 12v at Starter solenoid - no 12v and also the daughter told me that the Red LED on the dash was up solid + the light with the key symbol was flashing on the dash as well. I then started to think that this was related to the Remote no longer working and possibly related to the spider issue that I read about a while ago.
Anyhow, since I had 12volt @ the IP fuel solenoid, I just sourced a 12volt supply to the starter solenoid and it started up no worries (still had those 2 lights on the dash that I previously mentioned) Got home and started to read up a bit about it and it seems it points to the spider issue. My Disco is a 96 model with the interior sensor up on the B pillar.
Here's where I'm a bit confused - The manual says that the Spider unit shuts off supply to both the Starter Solenoid and Fuel Solenoid but this wasn't the case for me... What's the go, could it be something else?? I haven't found any definitive answer yet but have found that I can buy a Spider Bypass part (AMR4956), I'm wondering should I just buy this part and install it (I believe the Spider unit is behind the stereo ??) and be done with it or should I just install some wires to the Starter Solenoid / IP Fuel shut-off solenoid??
comments...?
The bypass plug is relatively cheap. Getting to the unit is PITA.
A friend with Discovery 1 had similar issue, first, key fob stopped unlocking doors, so used key. Next, a few weeks later, key did nothing, could not unlock doors with key, lights for immobilizer stayed on....no start. Got in through passenger door.
Ended up taking to auto electrician, he fixed in a few minutes, (and charged $200.00), turned out to be the immobilizer earth wire not fitted correctly and had come loose.
A simple cheap self drilling screw was used for the earth wire connection to body. cleaned and replaced connection and all was well.
Not my car, so don't actually know where this wire is, but he did say the sparky removed the panel under steering wheel.
something to check anyway.
Well, went out to start work on the car and before starting I checked whether it would lock/unlock from the key fob... to my surprise it did... I then fixed up my hot wiring efforts from the previous day and then tried starting it and again it started. I stopped it and tried locking the car via the key fob, this too worked fine so it's like its back to normal like it was months ago...
Don't want to start spending hours and hours pulling the dash apart to get to the spider if that is not the real cause (thinking it still is though). Thinking of waiting to a full failure of the spider unit and just setup a backup plan to get it started should it do it sporadically...
I dont know if the diesel is the same, but my 97 V8 started pulling the same trick. And it would usually do it at some place like at a servo after filling up! For awhile just recycling the door locks with the remote would clear it, but about a month ago it failed completely.
It originally had a p/n YWJ500020 engine immobiliser but that had been removed and replaced with the bypass plug years ago. The fault was traced to p/n AMR6428, a green plastic ECU that is both an alarm and door lock unit used by the remote. Cannot find a replacement, so now there is no theft alarm and I have to lock the doors with the key in the drivers door lock.
You are probably on the right track.
I had the same symptoms...intermittently not starting. Then it would come good for long periods then play up again. Initially i just cleaned the starter solenoid terminals and this seemed to fix it but it was just coincidental.
It was the spider-now bypassed.
So, when it eventually failed totally what did u do to get your car home?
From what I an see in the Tdi300's is its fairly simple in getting them running - 12volts to the Fuel solenoid and then 12v to the starter solenoid to get the fire started and your off and running... For mine it only effected the supply to the starter solenoid, the 12v to the fuel solenoid remained normal
Ironically enough the last time that it happened was right in front of the garage that I use! I left it there and they removed the alarm ECU.So, when it eventually failed totally what did u do to get your car home?
Many years since mine was replaced. From what I remember it was accessible after removing the radio and maybe the plastic facia panel. I had left it where it failed and had to take the replacement plug to them the next day and it did not take very long to do the job.how hard is it to get to the spider? How much of the dash has to be removed?
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