If no roar with a bit of a rev from cold, I would say your coupling is shot.
Long life coolant should be fine for a few years yet, depending on the condition of your galleries at the last change.
Hi
I have read a lot of threads on here regarding the viscous fans for different landrovers and I'm not sure of the differences. My truck is a D1 V8 97 stock configuration and mainly highway driving.
I'm wondering if my viscous fan is operating correctly and would appreciate some advice.
Two years ago I replaced the viscous clutch, the new part was a Borg Warner from a reputable supplier. The original clutch had been on the truck since new and was leaking. At the same time I replaced the engine coolant and thermostat. Since then I am not aware of any engine overheating and the factory temp gauge hasn't risen above just under halfway (which seems to be how it works from what others have said).
Testing today: When the truck is cold from standing overnight and engine off, I can move the fan freely, although it does have some minor resistance, but not a lot. When I start the car cold the fan does not roar. When the car is hot after going for a drive and engine off, I can move the fan freely also.
Do you think the fan on my V8 is working correctly or not. If not, why would I only get two years or less from a Borg Warner part ?
Also should the coolant be changed after two years, or do modern coolants last much longer ? I'm using Ethylene Glycol, (Nulon Premium Long Life coolant) at 50/50 concentration.
Thanks for the help.
If no roar with a bit of a rev from cold, I would say your coupling is shot.
Long life coolant should be fine for a few years yet, depending on the condition of your galleries at the last change.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
Look it is not ironclad re the roar on start up.
Depends on a lot of things.
Imho the best test is to block off the radiator and Chechen the core temp in front of the fan.
The fan should lock up at 94 c approximately.
you will know when it locks up.
regards PhilipA
Ok thanks for the replies.
What I think I will do is connect up my ECUmate then drive around until the engine gets hot and up some hills and see what temps are being reported to the ECU from the coolant sensor.
Well that is not the full story as the vc engagement depends pon the temperature of the air passing through the radiator core onto the spring on the front of the vc
An infrared temp tester on the rad is best as some rads block in front of the Vc although if your temp is normal then should be OK
The aux fans also come on at 102 from a sensor on the thermostat
Best test is to have an accurate temp gauge and see the actual engine temp. They are available on eBay for 20 dollars or so.
regards PhilipA
Duplicate
regards PhilipA
Thanks for all the feedback.
I have run some tests with the ECUmate.
For normal driving around town and up hills the ecu shows coolant temp around 89C. When the engine is switched off after a run it rises to 93C and drops when restarted. Can’t get the coolant temp above 93C so far. This temp is too low to engage the viscous fan, based on what others have said. Will try again to engage the fan on our next very hot day.
As an unrelated observation, the ecu had stored a fault from previous driving. 15 - Fuel Temp Sensor. I have cleared this fault and will see if it comes back in the future. No faults at present.
The ecu is currently reporting the fuel temp in the high 50s.
That is pretty well perfect including the heat soak to 93 c.
the VC hardly activates with normal driving, but on a hot day on sand you will know whether it is working.
regards PhilipA
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