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Thread: Respray advice please!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    528
    We had a closed door respray done on our D1 back in ~2000. Was 6 grand at the time. Then 3 months later we noticed the paint was peeling, so we made them do it again (properly this time). It lasted until we got rid of it in about 2010 and still looked pretty nice.

    I got a quote to have my Volvo wagon done in 2 pack last year. Again, 6 grand. I thought that was overcapitalizing on a car that cost me $200, so it's colour will remain "flaking clear coat".

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    12,247
    I often wonder why people let the clearcoat get to the flaking off stage which makes it so much more expensive to repair.

    Once the clear coat goes milky, is when a repaint is necessary using primer top coat then clear coat.

    if it is a roof you can get away often with spray cans of the correct colour or a contrasting colour. You can get the OEM colour from Supercheap but the route is much more expensive as you need 4-5 cans for a roof.

    The secret is good preparation with scotchbrite sandpaper and grease and wax remover and the tedious job of masking.

    Nobody sees an LR roof anyway under most conditions.

    Regards PhilipA

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northside, Brisvagus, Qld
    Posts
    365
    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyChip View Post
    Hi all,
    Hereís the problem, paint is really poor. Clear coat has failed and there is the usual spot of rust on both alpine windows which i want repaired.

    Have you checked around the windscreen. My father had a fair bit of rust under the rubber in his D1 and I had the same in my D2, which neither of us knew about until, in dad's case a rock and in my case a duck went thru the windscreen. Don't want to be a downer but that may influence your decision.

    Cheers Glen
    MY12 Defender
    Sold 99 D2 TD5
    When I grew up there were 9 planets.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by Traco View Post
    I got my bonnet and two front fenders done for $500 then the roof for another $1000 by a crash repair shop here in Adelaide.The next year the side doors and rear fenders done for $500 per side. Taping up not stripping windows etc of course but with the final cut and machine polishing it came up a treat. Never concours standard mind you, but hey it's a 4x4 workhorse not a trailer queen show car. That was five years ago and it still looks ok.

    I also considered wrapping it and that does seem like a good option, would love to do carbon fibre wrap bonnet sometime.
    Thought about getting it wrapped was quoted around 5-6k. Maybe Iíve got mug written across my forehead when I get these quotes or maybe like someone said they just donít want to do it. What youíre saying here is the prices and and quality Iím wanting to find.

    Anyone know anywhere Mid North Coast NSW?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by Dorian View Post
    Have you checked around the windscreen. My father had a fair bit of rust under the rubber in his D1 and I had the same in my D2, which neither of us knew about until, in dad's case a rock and in my case a duck went thru the windscreen. Don't want to be a downer but that may influence your decision.

    Cheers Glen
    Thanks Glen,

    Had a good look and thereís nothing else I could find neither could the shops

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    West Victoria
    Posts
    723
    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyChip View Post
    Thanks Glen,

    Had a good look and thereís nothing else I could find neither could the shops
    Be careful as a lot of the rust can't be seen with the screen in. I have just done my patrol and it looked good, then we removed the screen and it was close to having holes in the frame (all fixed now).

    Is the Disco you daily driver? If not, do one panel at a time, sanding all clear off and priming (primer is not water proof so keep in garage) then when all panels are done spray the whole car in one go. Doing the top coat one panel at a time will lead to differences in each panel. Painting is one of the easiest parts of fixing a car. Give it a go then you can sit back and say "I did that"
    Neale


    89 Range Rover Classic (Black Thunder)
    93 200tdi Disco,(OGRE)
    96 300tdi Disco, DEAD MOTOR
    95 VS Commodore
    04 Nissan Patrol with ALL the fruit
    12 VE II Commodore Ute DD

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mt Barker SA
    Posts
    871
    Qualified spray painter here, please don't use cans to respray anything Respray advice please!Respray advice please!Respray advice please! not a roof at least unless its the 2 pack pressure pack cans! Roof takes the most weather!! Paint is there to protect what's underneath it cheap paint will not do that. If you love your D1, and plan on keeping it for a long time, it's absolutely worth a respray! It will protect the metal under it for the next 20+ years! The process is, it gets sanded back so even if clear had simply been milky, process is the exact same. Pretty much sand old clear off in all cases as last thing one wants is the old clear pealing off old base coat under new expensive paint. It will be sanded, it will be primed as needed, likely a lot. Will have stone chips sorted, be sanded again, spot primed on any rub through to metal. Then cleaned, put in booth and masked then completely cleaned and degreased so no contamination to fish eye the paint. Prep is longest part! Then it will get painted. Base coat and then clear is essentially double work vs single layer gloss coat. So your quotes are not bad they are a large car, lots of hours work there and paint litres.
    I say go for it if you can afford Respray advice please!Respray advice please!
    Then make sure you wax regularly to lengthen paint life and no cut and polish

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,983

    D2s also deteriorating

    My D2 2003 is just starting to bubble the clear coat so replacing your D1 with a 2 is only a small improvement on the paint front.
    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    ........

    Maybe we're expecting too much out of what really is a smallish motor allready pushing 2 tonnes. Just because it's a v8 doesn't mean it's powerfull.

    One answer REV IT BABY REV IT!!!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    12,247
    Qualified spray painter here, please don't use cans to respray anything
    not a roof at least unless its the 2 pack pressure pack cans! Roof takes the most weather!!
    Hi Epic , to me it is a question of how much you put into an old car.

    My spray can job is now 3-4 years old and still looks as good as it did when done. It is not so great as it was done outdoors and a hot change happened midway which caused the paint to dry before landing, however a vigorous sand before applying the clear coat made it look OK , at least better than milky clear coat that was about to peel at some stage. I polish it regularly and it still beads water well.

    The silver colour over Oslo Blue looks great and is about 20C cooler on a hot day. I have also covered my skylights with Chrome wrap. If it were to fail which I doubt I would just do it again! as it only costs 100-200 in materials.

    Look an old D2 will also pick up many bush stripes on the sides if used as many are used , as mine has.

    My bonnet has numerous flying fox **** marks on it , and a dent but I do not want to try to paint that as I know my limitations. I also repainted a grille with a Supercheap Oslo Blue can and clear coated it and it still looks great.
    I hear what you say but to spend bulk dollars on a dunger D1 is just not sensible.

    Regards PhilipA

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Kilmore, VIC
    Posts
    832
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I often wonder why people let the clearcoat get to the flaking off stage which makes it so much more expensive to repair.

    Once the clear coat goes milky, is when a repaint is necessary using primer top coat then clear coat.

    Regards PhilipA
    My RRS is starting to lose the clear on the roof. Coming off in small random patches. No milky degradation. Just lifting in localised spots like it didn't stick down properly. That has happened suddenly, too. A few months ago it was perfect, now there are several sections lifting. Bonnet and all other surfaces are still perfect. AFAIK it has never been resprayed and there's no obvious evidence of that. Maybe now is the opportunity to contrast the roof, or not...

    The D1 however.... It went milky and then the clear crumbled to dust.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - Compomotives, 285/60 BFGs, Rock sliders, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman alloy rack, LLAMS, VCIQ

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