Thread: Discovery 1 V8 3.9 1999

I agree with LRexperience, if it starts and runs ok, but overheats, is most likely thermostat or blocked radiator. Try those solutions before looking for expensive problems.

Originally Posted by Ronski

Good to hear, It's beer time.

Strange how a ride on the back of a tilt/tow truck can shake things up

let us know if the thermostat was the cause of overheating.

Ok guys just an update as I'm working on the D1 and awaiting other parts. The thermostat was very worn/inoperable so I have put in a new one. So it could have been the issue.

Also noted the sensor to the Dash gauge was very corroded, put in new one $20 cheap, also put a new sensor the the ECU again $20 from Roverlord ( awesome guy, Mario was super helpful ) had all my parts next day.

As I was into the area of sensors etc I also checked the water pump it looked good and worked but $120 for a new one so I exchanged it as I had easy access. Kept the old one as a spare in case I'm in the **** : )

This is when I had a chance to really inspect the radiator and I wasn't happy with how it looked so I took it out and found fins etc corroding. It was cleanish inside and had decent flow so I suspect although it was crappy it wasn't causing a blockage. So a new high end radiator is on order ( thanks again Rover Lord ). I did consider a cheap Rad but from what I read it's not worth the risk. Recore was not an option for me either, I don't believe it saves enough cash to warrant doing it IMHO.

Sooooo with all that in mind I am going ahead and removing the head gaskets (due to **** compression test ) and seeing what's going on and replace with new head gaskets and whatever else may need doing. I think it will be time well spent and I want a clean slate with this D1. No doubt other things may rear their ugly heads : ) : )

Will keep you posted, thank you so much for advice thus far

I don't want to add to your workload, but,

If your going that far in removing heads, do check the camshaft, due to it's design they wear over time and can also lead to low compression, especially cylinder one ( 90psi ) which takes increased load from timing gear, premature wear of the front cam bearing. Also the timing gear chain suffers from stretching and should be replaced with the cam and of course lifters, if worn.

It's like opening Pandora' box with these old engines, the list just keeps growing.

an old but useful link, a good read; RPi Engineering - Specialized Rover Engines - faqs

A picture of camshafts, note bottom cam cylinder one lobe has almost gone completely.

camshaft_wear_02.jpg

Keep us posted.

Originally Posted by Grahame Roberts

I would suggest you invest in an overheating warning alarm such as Engineguard.

It saved my D1,when owned, several times.
The factory cold to hot gauge is useless.
Cheers

X2 for the engine guard
$100 well spent in my opinion, especially when towing

Had my 110 over heat due to the thermostat failing, I was lucky enough for me to catch the factory temp gauge shoot up towards the red and pulled over as it started to boil

I’ve since fitted an engine guard and allows me to monitor and modify my right foot weight when hitting the hills with a few tonnes of hay and trailer on a hot day

Also give the radiator a good flush as described earlier



Gav

Originally Posted by Ronski

I don't want to add to your workload, but,

If your going that far in removing heads, do check the camshaft, due to it's design they wear over time and can also lead to low compression, especially cylinder one ( 90psi ) which takes increased load from timing gear, premature wear of the front cam bearing. Also the timing gear chain suffers from stretching and should be replaced with the cam and of course lifters, if worn.

It's like opening Pandora' box with these old engines, the list just keeps growing.

an old but useful link, a good read; RPi Engineering - Specialized Rover Engines - faqs

A picture of camshafts, note bottom cam cylinder one lobe has almost gone completely.

camshaft_wear_02.jpg

Keep us posted.

Thank you I shall take this on board, I'm anticipating extra expense and while its all open I may aswell replace worn items, will get the engine guard for sure , cheap insurance. Gearbox aswell ???

Will keep you posted,

Originally Posted by Grahame Roberts

The factory cold to hot gauge is useless.

Glad to see that LR fixed this on the D2

Originally Posted by Tins

Glad to see that LR fixed this on the D2

Nanocom

Originally Posted by pop058

Nanocom

Yeah. Sold mine when I'd given up on everything. Now my D2 may be coming back to life I guess I'll need another one.