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Thread: aluminum 4 core radiator

  1. #1
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    aluminum 4 core radiator

    I'm about to rebuild my 3.9 V8.
    looking at getting the radiator rodded and cleaned, the local radiator shop wants $150.00 to remove tanks and rod out the cores.

    However, doing a search online I found an aftermarket aluminum one with 4 cores and claimed 45% better cooling, for $190.00.
    Some say aluminum won't last, but then, almost all modern vehicles use them these days, and most have plastic tanks.
    This one has aluminum tanks.

    Any one fitted one of these radiators? good or bad? From Tuningsupplies in Melbourne.

    For Land Rover 4ROW Aluminium Radiator Discovery Range Rover 3.9L SERIES 1&2 AT | eBay

    Thanks in advance,
    Ron.

  2. #2
    Tombie's Avatar
    Tombie is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    The plastic tanks are actually better, and prevent the alloy radiators cracking mounts and welds.

    As far as that radiator on ebay - ask yourself how much aluminium material and how good is the actual grade used in a $190 unit
    Cheers
    Tombie

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    The plastic tanks are actually better, and prevent the alloy radiators cracking mounts and welds.

    As far as that radiator on ebay - ask yourself how much aluminium material and how good is the actual grade used in a $190 unit
    Can't argue with the logic, but on the other side I put a cheap Ebay aluminium radiator in my 300tdi a couple of years ago and my coolant temps are still sitting comfortably in the mid to high seventies centigrade, I admit I might be the exception rather than the rule but so far it's been perfect.
    P38 Range Rover , the best car in the world, when it's working

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post

    As far as that radiator on ebay - ask yourself how much aluminium material and how good is the actual grade used in a $190 unit
    True, but if it lasts, say, three years then it's just a service item.
    ​JayTee

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    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    True, but if it lasts, say, three years then it's just a service item.
    Why? When a re-core is 10+ and unlikely to become a service item on a remote track aluminum 4 core radiator
    Cheers
    Tombie

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    TonyC is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by finallyrangie View Post
    Can't argue with the logic, but on the other side I put a cheap Ebay aluminium radiator in my 300tdi a couple of years ago and my coolant temps are still sitting comfortably in the mid to high seventies centigrade, I admit I might be the exception rather than the rule but so far it's been perfect.
    Something is not right then, either your thermostat, or your temp gauge.
    A 300Tdi thermostat doesn't start to open until 88 .

    Tony

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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    Something is not right then, either your thermostat, or your temp gauge.
    A 300Tdi thermostat doesn't start to open until 88 .

    Tony
    I always wondered the same thing, I thought the thermostat was fully open at 88, but started earlier, happy to be corrected of I'm wrong.

    To be honest the temp gauges are cheap Ebay specials as well so I don't really believe them, I just figured if I know what they usually read, if anything changes I find out sooner rather than later! I actually have 2, one on the head and one in the coolant, head temp usually less than 10 degrees more than coolant.
    P38 Range Rover , the best car in the world, when it's working

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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    Something is not right then, either your thermostat, or your temp gauge.
    A 300Tdi thermostat doesn't start to open until 88 .

    Tony
    I think V8's are similar(can't remember) but ...

    lower temp thermostats are available. Could be that finallyrangie has a 78C stat in his vehicle .. or something. The operating temp could be stamped on the thermostat body somewhere.
    I used to run a 78C stat in my RRC.

    IN my D1, I changed mine from (what I think may have been) the original waxstat version to a Tridon branded same temp stat in my 300 Tdi.
    Ever since, temps have consistently been lower than with the waxstat thermostat, even up to 10C lower in normal driving.

    The tridon stat opens both wider(more flow) and quicker reacting compared to the waxstat version, tested with boiling water on stove and kettle. IIRC there may have been about a 2mm or more opening difference.

    I did also get a 78C version of the Tridon as well, but never thought it to be needed since I fitted the 88C tridon thermostat.

    My D1 now seems to regularly sit between about 78-83C depending on ambient temps.
    It still gets up into the low 90's trying to charge up a long steep climb as exhaust temps rise too, but also cools down a lot quicker than previously with the waxstat.


    Quote Originally Posted by finallyrangie View Post
    I always wondered the same thing, I thought the thermostat was fully open at 88, but started earlier, happy to be corrected of I'm wrong.

    To be honest the temp gauges are cheap Ebay specials as well so I don't really believe them, I just figured if I know what they usually read, if anything changes I find out sooner rather than later! I actually have 2, one on the head and one in the coolant, head temp usually less than 10 degrees more than coolant.
    Where in the coolant is the sensor?

    I have my sensor fitted on a replacement brass bleeder plug that allows a sensor to be fitted into it.. so mine is effectively just after the thermostat.
    Using a IR temp gun around the head I've pretty much confirmed that it's reading is accurate enough to feel sure it's fine to rely on. You do get hot spots on the head too, some spots run about 10C hotter than others.

    Only issue with the location of the sensor is that it rubs on the bonnet insulation, so the electrical connection just needs to be checked to ensure it's not coming loose from the movement between engine and bonnet, basically at every service or if I ever pop the bonnet.
    If the snap in connector comes loose it does read lower temps. Wiggle it back on the sensor stud and all is fine again.

    Sensor is a VDO 50-120C range sensor.
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

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    Coolant temp sensor is in the top radiator hose, after the thermostat obviously, its actually interesting to watch the head warm up and then the coolant temp suddenly shoots up as the thermostat starts to open,
    P38 Range Rover , the best car in the world, when it's working

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    Quote Originally Posted by finallyrangie View Post
    Coolant temp sensor is in the top radiator hose, after the thermostat obviously, its actually interesting to watch the head warm up and then the coolant temp suddenly shoots up as the thermostat starts to open,
    Interesting.

    As said, mine is in the thermostat housing on the tdi, and is a 50-130(I think) degree Celsius range. So as heater slowly build up heat on a cold morning I can feel it, but can't see it on the digital temp gauge nor the dash gauge.
    Then the digital readout starts to 'operate' once into the 50's and once at about 60-ish on the digital readout, the dash gauge quickly rises to catch up.
    But even at say low 60's, dash gauge continues to rise, I may be on the freeway by then, so lots of ambient cooling and coolant struggles to get any real warmth into it going by the digital gauge.
    Dash gauge don't care .. it want to show 'normal' temps to the careless driver.. even tho the digital gauge totally disagrees.

    In a nutshell .. dash gauge is so utterly useless, that anywhere between low 60's and high one hundred and teens values (I've maxed it out at 117C) it shows normal.

    Twice since I've had the digital gague and done some cooling work on the tdi, I didn't do the bleed properly and must have had air in the system.
    Only then did the dash gauge fly off it's handle and into the red, where the digital gauge showed in the low 90's but rising, where I knew there was a problem and stopped to sort it quickly. No problem only a very short time and no harm done.
    I've since changed my bleeding method to one that is closer too 100% bulletproof now.
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

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