Thread: D1 300TDI Timing Assistance

Well done Chris. I’ve been watching with interest as have the D1’s motor out for a rebuild. I’m fairly new to these motors.

Originally Posted by rar110

Well done Chris. I’ve been watching with interest as have the D1’s motor out for a rebuild. I’m fairly new to these motors.

Cheers rar110. Hopefully I make the stupid mistakes so others don't have to

Also have to do suspension bushes. I assume that means Radius Arm? Will find out. Surely I can press those out with nothing more than some shed tools?

Whilst this is a Toyota arm, the same should apply to a LR one....

Change Suspension Bushes without a Hydraulic Press? - YouTube

Originally Posted by gusthedog

....

Also have to do suspension bushes. I assume that means Radius Arm? Will find out. Surely I can press those out with nothing more than some shed tools?

.....

Haha! Good luck with it.

Perfectly good large bench vices have known to break under the strain.

You may find yourself in the situation where 3 of the four fronts come out relatively easy .. and then for no reason, and without warning .. that 4th is the bugger that breaks the shed tool.

I rushed it to a local bike mechanic and he pressed it out with no charge.
I fitted the new bushes in an old spare vice tho .. the new ones should go in a lot easier than randomly recalcitrant old ones coming out.

I hate the smell of burning rubber, but some folks burn them out till the shell is left and then hack the shell out a little.

After a few goes at replacing bushes in my RRC, I found that the split design polys are the best way to replace them.
A lifetime ago, info wasn't so readily available, and the RRC would chew out bushes like they were a regular service item.

So once polys were discovered, partly to test them out, more so for the ease of replacing them if they ever failed .. but the failure never eventuated with half of the klms that old RRC had done on the polys.

I've seen advice that the soft type SuperPro polys seem to work well.
Back in the day(90's) I got yellow coloured Nolathanes for my RRC. Apart from tightening up the loose chassis feeling(to be expected with clapped out rubber bushes) they didn't make the ride any harsher as many people claim they do.

20 ton press is one of those shed tools I've always had in mind to get myself(now that I have a shed!) .. just keeps slipping the memory capacity available in my bonce!

Anyhow .. something I want to do to my D1 one day soon too.

Would using some grease on the new bushes help for next time, if using rubber/OEM rather than poly bushes?

Originally Posted by rar110

Would using some grease on the new bushes help for next time, if using rubber/OEM rather than poly bushes?

That's the plan rar110 - although I have spied a nice 20 ton press for $250 delivered. Might save up some bikkies.

Thanks for the advice on the bushes AK83. I won't be burning them out either. I'll try the high tensile bolt way with some sockets and what not, nearly kill myself and then buy a press anyway

My mechanic mate in town has offered to press them out if I need.

Another order in with Mario for the next round of bits and bobs.

Caught up with a mate today who has just got his new Hilux. It was very pretty. SR5 wheels, bullbar, side steps etc etc He spent twice my vehicle purchase price on accessories! He is a builder though so can write it off on tax.

I think poor old Dolores felt a bit old when he parked next to me

He didn't have a name for his car on it though. I won that one!

Originally Posted by rar110

Would using some grease on the new bushes help for next time, if using rubber/OEM rather than poly bushes?

If you mean between outer shell and the radius arm .. most likely not.

If you use grease on the outer shell, it'll just get squidged out when pressing in the new bush(which should go in relatively easy .. from experience).
They are an interference fit.

Note that the vid you linked too shows the panhard rod bush, which is quite small compared to a radium arm bush.
Also in the vid, note that he only pulled out the rubber using the long thread and ratchet method. Had he tried doing that on the entire bush, he'd have needed the breaker bar. Note how he had to tap out the shell that remained in the panhard rod.

So, the small effort used using the high tensile all thread method is a fraction of a percent needed for a really stuck radius bush.
Note that they may all pop out quite easily, or they could all be near impossible to remove. Condition of radius arm will matter .. how long they've been in .. etc.

I did my panhard rod bushes(D1) a few years ago now, got a nice sturdy vice .. not a branded version, just a cheapo Chineseium thingie from an ebay type seller warehouse.
Panhard bushes nearly jumped out of their slots.

I use anti-sieze on the bolts tho. The bolts can wear out by fractions of a mil, so a bit of lube can help. In Aus, they don't usually rust up badly like you see in overseas videos on youtube .. but if you do a lot of coastal/beach trips .. maybe they will.

Do you have a super extensive selection of sockets. May sound like the obvious item to use as an implement, but note that radius arm bushes are about 50mm diameter .. which means a 45mm-ish socket.

If you're looking to spend $s on some tools of useful value, I can recommend a set of bush removing cups .. or press sleeve set.
I got mine from the same ebay-ish seller warehouse I got my latest vice. Huge selection of sleeves/cups in this kit.
I see them on ebay for more than $100, but I got mine for about $80. The kits come with high tensile threaded rod in various sizes and up to M16, but more importantly bearing washers. You don't want the friction of pushing and twisting against washers and stuff.

I was contemplating trying my kit on the radius bushes one day, but using the impact gun on it instead of 'hard labour'.

If these random cycles of lockdown ever stops, I have no problem coming up with some useful tools for you to have a play with.

I didn't read that you're planning to do the chassis end of the bushes .. and it'd seem a waste to do just the circular bushes and not do the chassis end as well too. And I always replace the bolts as well as the nuts.
Doesn't seem obvious to do so, but with my RRC, I found that I'd get a slight shimmy in the steering, which was always easily fixable with new bolts for the radius arm bushes and or panhard rod. Repacing the nuts should be standard procedure as they are nyloc types(which shouldn't be re used) and you don't want them coming off on 'ya down the road!
Std nut/bolt heads are 24mm I think(I can get back on this if you need confirmation), and the design was such that you NEED a ring spanner for some of the heads. Socket will not fit. Can't recall which, but in the end, I think two ring spanners were needed to get some of the bolts off.

Originally Posted by AK83

If you mean between outer shell and the radius arm .. most likely not.

If you use grease on the outer shell, it'll just get squidged out when pressing in the new bush(which should go in relatively easy .. from experience).
They are an interference fit.

Note that the vid you linked too shows the panhard rod bush, which is quite small compared to a radium arm bush.
Also in the vid, note that he only pulled out the rubber using the long thread and ratchet method. Had he tried doing that on the entire bush, he'd have needed the breaker bar. Note how he had to tap out the shell that remained in the panhard rod.

So, the small effort used using the high tensile all thread method is a fraction of a percent needed for a really stuck radius bush.
Note that they may all pop out quite easily, or they could all be near impossible to remove. Condition of radius arm will matter .. how long they've been in .. etc.

I did my panhard rod bushes(D1) a few years ago now, got a nice sturdy vice .. not a branded version, just a cheapo Chineseium thingie from an ebay type seller warehouse.
Panhard bushes nearly jumped out of their slots.

I use anti-sieze on the bolts tho. The bolts can wear out by fractions of a mil, so a bit of lube can help. In Aus, they don't usually rust up badly like you see in overseas videos on youtube .. but if you do a lot of coastal/beach trips .. maybe they will.

Do you have a super extensive selection of sockets. May sound like the obvious item to use as an implement, but note that radius arm bushes are about 50mm diameter .. which means a 45mm-ish socket.

If you're looking to spend $s on some tools of useful value, I can recommend a set of bush removing cups .. or press sleeve set.
I got mine from the same ebay-ish seller warehouse I got my latest vice. Huge selection of sleeves/cups in this kit.
I see them on ebay for more than $100, but I got mine for about $80. The kits come with high tensile threaded rod in various sizes and up to M16, but more importantly bearing washers. You don't want the friction of pushing and twisting against washers and stuff.

I was contemplating trying my kit on the radius bushes one day, but using the impact gun on it instead of 'hard labour'.

If these random cycles of lockdown ever stops, I have no problem coming up with some useful tools for you to have a play with.

I didn't read that you're planning to do the chassis end of the bushes .. and it'd seem a waste to do just the circular bushes and not do the chassis end as well too. And I always replace the bolts as well as the nuts.
Doesn't seem obvious to do so, but with my RRC, I found that I'd get a slight shimmy in the steering, which was always easily fixable with new bolts for the radius arm bushes and or panhard rod. Repacing the nuts should be standard procedure as they are nyloc types(which shouldn't be re used) and you don't want them coming off on 'ya down the road!
Std nut/bolt heads are 24mm I think(I can get back on this if you need confirmation), and the design was such that you NEED a ring spanner for some of the heads. Socket will not fit. Can't recall which, but in the end, I think two ring spanners were needed to get some of the bolts off.

Thanks for all that useful info AK83. I am planning on replacing all of the worn bushes as I go. Was thinking of getting one of those full rubber sets for around $300 and taking my time.

Have you got a link to the cups etc for the bushes? I do have a variety of pretty good quality tools but want to get a shop press and a good half inch or 3/4 rattle gun. Have a good air compressor in the shed.

You're right though, not sure if I have 45mm sockets around. Not much call for anything that big on my Landy or my Royal Enfield Himalayan

Just got in from the shed. Spent some time fixing door handle action on the rear doors so the kids can open them easily. They open really well now.

Also made sure the power steering box was properly bled as the pump was making some groaning noise and may have had some air in it. I had a similar problem on my D2 when I did the power steering pump. Bled well and no more sound. Win.

Would love to catch up post lockdown AK83 and have a chat about tools and landies.

Glad we are pretty free to move around up here - going to take the kids up Mt Margaret on Sunday in the Landy. A nice drive and great scenery.

If you go for the rubber bushes, DO Not tighten the bolts unless the vehicle is sitting on the wheels. That way the rubber will not be stressed and twisted in its natural location.

If there tightened with the suspension hanging down, when the car is lowered to its normal height the rubber will be twisted, causing it to tear and fail early in life.

Poly bushes not so bad as they can move in the arm.