Thread: Pulley bolt ERR5087

Out of curiosity did you find one at a local bolt supplier? If so, how much(cheaper?)

Originally Posted by BathurstTom

...the o'ring and gear were new...

Originally Posted by BathurstTom

...the o'ring and gear were new...

Good to hear the replacement engine runs well.

My point was not well explained.

Regardless of whether the items were new or not. The back of the pulley is recessed to encompass the o-ring. If installed correctly, with the harmonic on and the nose bolt tightened, the pulley should make metal to metal contact with the crank flange, and the compressed o-ring in its recess should stop oil traveling forward on the crank under the pulley and harmonic and appearing as a leak.

What works for me. What I do is remove the harmonic key and leave the pulley key in place. I install the o-ring in its recess in the back of the pulley, and this in itself is a tight fit, then place this assembly on the crank and push it forward to the pulley key. With the space available, I use a pick tool to partially pull the o-ring out of its recess and work that slack over the pulley key following along with the pulley as I do this. Once past the key the space is really tight but with care you can push the slack of the o-ring back into the recess with the pick, then push the pulley home onto the crank flange confident that the o-ring is in place.

What does not work for me. Slide the o-ring onto the crank and then locate it against the crank flange. Install the pulley key. Slide the pulley onto the crank, over the key, and up against the o-ring. The theory is that the o-ring backed by the crank flange should then under a bit of pressure/lubed self locate into the recess at the back of the pulley. I have never managed to get the o-ring to self locate into that recess by this method or any other. Maybe the supplied o-rings are wrong? The space is really limited, the o-ring is a tight fit and does not cooperate with any effort to manipulate it into the recess. Instead the o-ring always gets pinched between the crank flange and the back of the pulley. The o-ring is quite resistant to compression and when not self located can give the installer the feeling that the pulley is seated against the crank flange. When the harmonic is on and the nose bolt is tightened the o-ring gets pinched and crushed. Even though the torque process is done correctly (and loctited) having that rubber in the equation causes the torque to come off speck when running. It's like standing against a brick wall with a big tube coming toward you. You can either get inside and survive and do your job, or say 'nah, I'm not budging' and get your head/arms/feet crushed.

I bought a vehicle where the harmonic had rotated. The key had sheared, but not before damaging the side of the key way that takes the force. The side of the key way not taking force was fine. If you intend to fix your old engine crank nose, then what worked for me was a small dremel grind stone the same arc as the key way - use this stone to correct the damaged side. The reground key way will now be wider than original spec. Put your new key in, against the good side. Shape some steel packing to fill between the key and reground straight side, and flush to crank shaft. Once happy with the fit of packing and key then if necessary grab some resin A plus B 'liquid metal' to fill any micro spaces. First remove packing and key, apply resin dab to reground side, put in packing. Fit key, ensuring it does not get glued in with the packing, removing and inserting it a few times to be sure, then leave the key in place while the fast curing resin sets. You should be able to then pull the key with packing left in place. This was all all done in situ, in the vehicle, although you will have the dubious 'advantage' of having the engine out of the vehicle . My fix is still in good condition over 100,000km, and no loctite required.

Good luck.