HELP needed urgently Discovery 1

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Originally Posted by oldboots

Thanks for the replies. Electronic ignition on it so I can forget the rotor and cap, I always throw in hoses and belts and spark plugs, 300 k between fuel stops means packing the fridge to the hilt. I know there is a readout under the passenger seat that gives a code number , how do I know what the code means. I've scoured the net and I've a feeling these numbers are top secret. Where can I find out code number meanings. This old girl is old school, even has window winders not electric, easy to fix. Can't be many 3 door discovery's getting around now, the guy I bought it off looked after it really well, a bonus. CODE NUMBER MEANINGS anyone,

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Not sure what you mean there mate. My 95 3.9 D1 is electronic ignition but still runs a distributor for spark timing...so still a button and cap. The Lucas distributors were prone to shaft wear causing erratics timing and their spark was never what I would call chunky. Mine improved very significantly with a Performance Ignitions Scorcher Aus made dizzy using a mix of Ford and GHM hardware including an Aus Bosch spark module. I would carry a spare rotor button and cap and spark module (,better still change to a Scorcher). Cheers

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Originally Posted by ozscott

Not sure what you mean there mate. My 95 3.9 D1 is electronic ignition but still runs a distributor for spark timing...so still a button and cap. The Lucas distributors were prone to shaft wear causing erratics timing and their spark was never what I would call chunky. Mine improved very significantly with a Performance Ignitions Scorcher Aus made dizzy using a mix of Ford and GHM hardware including an Aus Bosch spark module. I would carry a spare rotor button and cap and spark module (,better still change to a Scorcher). Cheers

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Thanks ozscott, on trips like this you always carry a bag full of spares, you can never be too sure, and it's generally some stupid little thing that catches you out. Thanks for that info though, I'll see how it goes. Still I prefer the older vehicles to the new stuff, treat them well and your guaranteed to get there, cheers

Hi Oldboots,
I have a D1 paper manual that covers early cars up to the start of 94 model year, 3.5 & 3.9 v8 s and 200 tdi. The cover is loose and there is an occasional fingerprint, but it is complete and quite usable. Let me know if you are interested.
Good luck on the trip you are planning.
Cheers,
Woolly.

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Originally Posted by Woolly

Hi Oldboots,
I have a D1 paper manual that covers early cars up to the start of 94 model year, 3.5 & 3.9 v8 s and 200 tdi. The cover is loose and there is an occasional fingerprint, but it is complete and quite usable. Let me know if you are interested.
Good luck on the trip you are planning.
Cheers,
Woolly.

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Thanks Woolly, very interested, anything with fingerprints in it is a must. Does it have an electrical circuit map in it and code numbers, still not sure about code numbers, but like someone said they don't have them and being oldschool it's all about spark and fuel. Electric fuel pumps are a worry though, might have throw in a filter or two. Now where are you and how can I get hold of this finger printed manual lol

Mate my D2 doesn't have a filter apart from a non serviceable screen inside the pump I believe. Presume D1 the same but not sure. I can't imagine what codes would be because the motor did not have 02 sensors so wasn't closed loop. It might know if idle stepper is out of whack or MAF is cooked I guess but even the D2's advanced Bosh Motronic wasn't much good at diagnosing the MAF... cheers

No diagnostic plug under passenger seat, No codes, but their not to bad to work out. ECU is fuel only. No 02, crank or cam angle sensors to worry about.
Factory ignition modules are somewhat prone to failure. Remote mounted Bosch module with transistor coil is a worthy upgrade. Genuine Lucas dissy cap and rotor seem to outlast others by a long margin. Steppers can get sticky after a while, but cleaning is easy. Have a spare coolant temp sensor for the efi.

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Originally Posted by oldboots

G'days guys, ... I'd like to know what all the code numbers stand for.

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Is this what you are looking for? Land Rover OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

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Originally Posted by workingonit

Is this what you are looking for? Land Rover OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

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Thanks man I'll put the codes in the glove box, not sure if they'll work but better than nothing, great info

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Originally Posted by Rick1970

No diagnostic plug under passenger seat, No codes, but their not to bad to work out. ECU is fuel only. No 02, crank or cam angle sensors to worry about.
Factory ignition modules are somewhat prone to failure. Remote mounted Bosch module with transistor coil is a worthy upgrade. Genuine Lucas dissy cap and rotor seem to outlast others by a long margin. Steppers can get sticky after a while, but cleaning is easy. Have a spare coolant temp sensor for the efi.

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I seem to be grabbing all the info I can, never had a landrover always landcruisers and pajero's so knew experience especially on a long drive, I'll keep everything in mind about what you've said, upgrades and all, thanks man great help

Buy a RAVE CD from the forum shop - has all the workshop/handbook information you will need.

Also only buy genuine dizzy rotors and dizzy caps - aftermarket fail after a month or so. Also if the ignition module is still on the side of the dizzy where they get extremely hot, either get parts to move it or source a new dizzy without the module and the relevant ignition module and install them - the original early ignition module will cause no end of grief from dry joints caused by temp extremes where it is mounted on the dizzy.