Be aware of fruit fly inspection points or you might empty the fridge and larder just after stocking up. Cheers and enjoy the drive. The biggest other worry is paying for fuel. Lol. 👍🏻🙏🦘Quote:
Originally Posted by oldboots
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Be aware of fruit fly inspection points or you might empty the fridge and larder just after stocking up. Cheers and enjoy the drive. The biggest other worry is paying for fuel. Lol. 👍🏻🙏🦘Quote:
Originally Posted by oldboots
Thanks Grahame, I've done this trip in the past many times, it's not only fruit but honey. The night before you hit the control area you have a big feed. I have a large tank fitted too with a couple of gerry cans, so I try to hit Ceduna, top up the tank and it should nearly get me across, then I only put enough in the tank to try and find cheap petrol. Stick a wet finger in the air to check the wind resistance and drive at cool times, trying to dodge the kangaroo's, dingoes and the odd emu plus any cattle walking across the road, yes it has happened, still had my foot on the brake as I just managed to get through them, (old kombi in those days, didn't like stopping fast). But thanks for the info, the two F's food and fuel, cheers GrahameQuote:
Originally Posted by Grahame Roberts
Guys and gals, this is probably a silly question but when you have run diesels all the time petrol is a guessing game. The 3.5 efi v8 what petrol do you recommend. Unleaded 91 or 95 or 98. Trying to figure if 95 would suit. I know 98 would boost the power but cash wise on a long trip using 95 would not hurt the pocket too much. Any suggestions
A standard 3.5/3.9 will run Unleaded 91 - running higher octane like 95 and 98 does not increase power by itself. It only allows you to increase level of tune like ignition advance and higher compression ratios which is what increases power. So a 8.?:1 comp ration standard 3.5/3.9 only needs 91 - anything higher without engine mods will just drain your wallet.
OK.
14CUX has no memory for codes to be remembered.
USA spec RRCs and I presume D1s had a display under the RH seat that would tell a code while the engine was running eg no MAF signal. There is no plug in the OZ RRC for this but you can work out the wiring from a diagram. I bought one from a USA wrecker before he realised they were worth money. BUT pretty useless.
The alternator is the most failure prone bit, and it is common to fit a Bosch Alternator as fitted to a Magna, but you have to route the ignition trigger wire away from the alternator as the Bosch produces hash which can cause a misfire. If the Bosch rectifier and brushes fail you can get replacements ( or used to) pretty easily at Repco or similar.
Unleaded 91 is fine.There should be a fuel filter above the RH rear wheel if it in the same place as an RRC.
DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE ROTOR OFF. If it is stuck it will dislodge the bob weights. Crunch the old one with a pair of multigrips.
Check the panhard rod bushes and bolts and I guess all bushes. The panhard rod will give a shimmy if the bushes are shot and fit new bolts if required.
Check engine mounts as these usually give up early.
Regards PhilipA
Thanks for that, being a diesel person before was going to be trial and error but now I'll just bang in some 91 and check the results, also being use to japanese vehicles the tool box is full of metric spanners. I've read somewhere that you can use metric and sae spanners, whichever fits virtually, seems Discovery's had a bundle of all sorts, what do you think. I'm asking as I haven't picked up the disco yet or put a spanner on it. Any idea ?Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
I've worked it out there are no codes, so if it stops just work my way through the system, fuel and ignition. my idea is to change all suspension bushes bit by bit, worse ones first. thanks for the fuel info too. This disco has electronic ignition already and ceramic headers, new stepper valve so the guy I bought it off was looking for better fuel consumption. I did ask someone else though about what bolts are on it. It has the RR chassis, one of the first 3 door disco's, coils all around, now I have a toolbox full of metric spanners and I know some metric will fit but I'm considering getting some sae ones too, as I've read these disco's have a variety of bolts, and the other rule is if it fits use it, but the bigger suspension bolts could be a problem, any ideas on that ?Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Bigger bolts and nuts are not usually a problem as a metric will fit an SAE adequately.Quote:
but the bigger suspension bolts could be a problem, any ideas on that ?
If you are worried get a set of Metrinch spanners and sockets as they fit both.
The only probably important one is the driveshaft nuts which are 9/16AF.
There is a special slim socket with extension available which helps to undo them.
land Rover driveshaft nut tool: Search Result | eBay
Regards PhilipA
Thanks PhillipA, I'll try to grab one before I head off on my trip and I'll look into those other tools Metrinch. But i might end up buying some assorted sae sockets just in case, being stuck in the middle of nowhere could be a pain in the backside, oh have to pack some tape and wire, always handy, cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
You will get some benifit with 95/98 if you run a bit more timing, I was running quite happily with9 deg initial and 91…… 11 or so with 95, but it may be a problem if you get to a place and 91 is the only option.
L/100 with the 95/98 fuel is better, $/100 and is probably much of a muchnesses……more compression would probably help here.