Master
Subscriber245 and a camel cut is about as much as you can get away with before needing to modifying things.
Lift on its own dosnt help with fitting taller and/or wider tyres....bump stop extension, wheel offset, body lifts and grinders in various combinations.
Really need to look at gearing when going to 285's, they will also reduce brake efficiency a bit.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
TopicToaster
SupporterJust be aware that once you start to 'over' tyre a car, it just places strain on other parts that didn't have to deal with this strain to begin with.
So consider an uprated trans cooler. Having such larger diameter tyres will put more strain on diffs, driveshafts and axles ... etc.
Also, while it may look the part at the local shopping strip, you will lose a bit of low range ability without compensating with diffs or transfer case gearing.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
LordRover
SubscriberAll true. Braking is affected as well.Originally Posted by AK83
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Fossicker
I think at most really I’ll go 265. Or maybe even 245. I don’t want to run flares and I don’t really see the point in going overly wide. Plus as it is the braking is already abysmal 😂
Master
Subscriber245 is a nice size on them, quick trim one the back of the rear wheel arch and usually good to go.....adjust steering stops on front if needed.I think at most really I’ll go 265. Or maybe even 245. I don’t want to run flares and I don’t really see the point in going overly wide. Plus as it is the braking is already abysmal
Brakes should be ok if all is well. Mate done a rego check on mine a few weeks ago, commented that brakes were much better than newer 79 series cruisers 🤣
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
Fossicker
On todays episode of what in tarnation has happened now:
Soooo last week I replaced fuse 6 in satellite 2 which was causing my radio to lose memory and my clock to reset every time the car is turned off (fuse was blown) and also causing my interior lights to not come on with the door open -
Now I can’t say for certain but today after washing the car I noticed that there was a led light on the trailer plug that’s on - on the cover it’s for the service brake. (The trailer plug is one of those that has a tester which lights up in leds to show that the circuit is working)
Opened up trailer plug and found that the blue wire (trailer brake) is constantly on. I don’t have a brake controller fitted. 🤔🤔 I tested it further by touching the blue wire onto the other pins for the lights and when I do that circuit becomes live as in the lights turn on.
So now onto the fuse box in the dash - as above fuse 6 satellite 2 was previously blown and I have since replaced it (and in return fixed the memory of my radio and clock) but then that is also the reason that my blue towbar wire is always live. From what I’m reading it’s not meant to be constantly live? But then I imagine the fuse is always meant to have a soft current through it to keep the radio and clock memory?
As you can imagine I’m stumped. My choice either leaving the plug as is and leaving it be
Unplugging the fuse but also losing radio and clock memory
Or unplug the tester light on the towbar just so it doesn’t drain the battery with the led staying on but then I imagine that will mean that if I fit trailer brakes the brake signal will also always be live?
Also I can’t think of it being a short because again if there’s no power to that fuse then my radio and clock also lose memory.
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