Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: '96 d1 300tdi intermittent not starting.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Otago, NZ.
    Posts
    64
    Total Downloaded
    0

    '96 d1 300tdi intermittent not starting.

    300tdi, manual, with alarm unit.

    One morning recently my d1 wouldn't start.

    The starter ran briefly then there was a continuous sort of screeching noise from the engine bay.
    I disconnected the battery, noise stopped.

    After that the starter wouldn't run at all although I think the solenoid was clicking.
    Then the starter ran as normal, once, but never again after that.

    After some tests I suspected the starter and took it for testing.
    There was a problem with it. Put in a replacement.

    Starting is normal for a couple of days then back to nothing happening at all,
    which is the current situation. This time I don't think the solenoid is clicking.

    As background the truck had existing electrical issues. Indicator intermittently
    doing double time, battery not charging, alarm unit causing spontaneous hazard lights,
    abs and airbag failing self-test.

    I am working through the tests in the electrical troubleshooting manual (ETM)
    but so far I'm none the wiser. Time to throw it open to the aulro crowd:
    What has been known to cause this type of symptom in a 300tdi d1?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Only because you mentioned "a sort of screeching noise".

    Not exactly sure what you describe as a screeching noise, but was it sort of gear not engaging type screech?

    What can happen is that the teeth on either the flywheel or the starter can strip, and then cause the unmeshed noise, which is kind'a screeching, but distinctly gear like not engaged type noise.

    I would call a slipping fan belt a 'screeching' noise, but worn and unmeshing flywheel/starter gears, to my ears, is more of a high pitched grinding noise.

    More to the point: when you have this no start situation, does this screeching/grinding noise happen all the time, or no click from the solenoid at all?
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,180
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Only because you mentioned "a sort of screeching noise".

    Not exactly sure what you describe as a screeching noise, but was it sort of gear not engaging type screech?

    What can happen is that the teeth on either the flywheel or the starter can strip, and then cause the unmeshed noise, which is kind'a screeching, but distinctly gear like not engaged type noise.

    I would call a slipping fan belt a 'screeching' noise, but worn and unmeshing flywheel/starter gears, to my ears, is more of a high pitched grinding noise.

    More to the point: when you have this no start situation, does this screeching/grinding noise happen all the time, or no click from the solenoid at all?
    Could be wrong, but I took it as two seperate issues, firstly a failing starter which was replaced ( the screech ), and secondly a non related electrical issue, possibly conflated by the OP.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,770
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    Check the earth straps for corrosion/ looseness.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Otago, NZ.
    Posts
    64
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Could be wrong, but I took it as two seperate issues, firstly a failing starter which was replaced ( the screech ), and secondly a non related electrical issue, possibly conflated by the OP.
    Yes definitely two separate problems. When I took the starter in to the shop it was for elimination. When they said it had failed I still didn't assume that was necessary the whole problem but I need a working starter regardless, hence the replacement. The other problem seems to be intermittent - it just happened not to be manifesting when I replaced the starter, setting me up for a letdown later.

    @ak83 Yes, using words to describe noises is pretty subjective. I probably wouldn't describe it as "gear not engaging". The auto sparky at the shop said the brush end of the starter was ok, but some other part of it had melted. I wonder if the melting and "screeching" were related.

    In section B1 of the ETM (starting and charging), test A is all done on the starter solenoid relay. There are 5 parts to the test. My truck failed parts 2,4 and 5. In part 4 you connect pins 30 and 87 with a fused wire. It is supposed to run the starter but in my case it blew a 10 amp fuse and with a 30 amp fuse I just got sparks. The shop guy suggested this indicates a short between the relay and starter. He also said I could just bypass the relay completely. To run the starter only requires that current be applied to the spade connector on the solenoid. I made the bypass and it works perfectly so I'm back on the road while I continue to investigate, What is the relay even for?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,180
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by dogman View Post

    In part 4 you connect pins 30 and 87 with a fused wire. It is supposed to run the starter but in my case it blew a 10 amp fuse and with a 30 amp fuse I just got sparks. The shop guy suggested this indicates a short between the relay and starter. He also said I could just bypass the relay completely.
    Spot on. The wiring can, if it has been disturbed, run close to the turbo or manifold, or it could be pinched somewhere. What that test has done is eliminate the relay as the cause of the fault, but the short elsewhere could have damaged the relay anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by dogman View Post
    To run the starter only requires that current be applied to the spade connector on the solenoid. I made the bypass and it works perfectly so I'm back on the road while I continue to investigate, What is the relay even for?
    The relay is to eliminate voltage drop to the solenoid coils, and more importantly to eliminate unnecessary current loads to the ignition switch. If you continue to use the car in its bypassed state the ignition switch contacts will likely fail at some point. I doubt that your "shop guy" would recommend the bypass as a permanent solution.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!