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Thread: 300Tdi vac pump leaking oil

  1. #1
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    300Tdi vac pump leaking oil

    I have a 300Tdi vacuum pump that looks like it's leaking oil out of one of the Welch plugs.
    It seems some folk have repaired similar.
    Is it the Welch plug that's leaking? Or is there a bigger failure inside?

    Tony
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    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    I've had a look at two of Mike's (Britannica Restorations) videos.

    It would seem that valves for the pump are behind the Welch plugs, and they're crimped in.

    It would also seem that if there's that much oil there, it's likely that the piston seal is damaged.

    I've ordered a new one, I'll pull apart the old one at some stage, and see what it's like inside.

    Tony

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    I used the orange coloured RTV type goop(gasket stuff) and pasted it over the welch plugs on my vac pump. Worked perfectly. Maybe 5 or 6 years ago. I i still get oil on there, but from higher up, I think maybe the cyclone hoses.

    I think the orange stuff is more high temp, but I mainly chose it because it makes it easier to see any oil if it still leaked.
    Anyhow, on mine it was the other core plug that leaked, but I pasted up over both anyhow.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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    On new vac pumps I remove the rivets and tap holes out and use screws to secure cover. That seems to solve half the leaks...

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    [QUOTE=TonyC;3233793 It would also seem that if there's that much oil there, it's likely that the piston seal is damaged.Tony[/QUOTE]

    The cap seats on the main body via a seal. Leaks usually occur through this seal when the rivets holding the cap stretch. Seal may not be damaged. Replace rivets with small tensile bolts. The bolts will need to be re-tightened over time.

    From memory welch plugs don't have a rubber seal, but rely on a metal on metal seal. I bought one new placement vacuum pump to find the welch plug rocking in its hole - could almost remove it with my finger.

    One welch plug seal is subject to evacuation of air/vacuum (less likely to leak oil), The air is then expelled via the other welch plug seal into the engine block with little resistance via an open gallery. The oil comes from lubrication of the piston - I don't think the oil is under any real pressure, but rather has a lazy passage under a poorly sealing welch plug - if under real pressure you might expect a bit of a spray pattern when coming from under the welch plug, either that or the bulk of it (if that is the case) gets scooted into the engine block with the expelled air via the open gallery. The welch plug holes are drilled to allow, as you say, the insertion and crimping in of the valves. Pity they used the lid for part of the system. Better if all the valves were inside the body and the cap was a screw down lid on the whole lot.

    I pulled the welch plugs, threaded the holes, machined a couple of threaded steel plugs, wrapped the plugs with plumbers tape before insertion - but that is a lot of work using a lathe, but seems very effective. The bolts replacing the rivets remain a problem over the very long term. Some people double the thickness of the gasket between the vacuum pump and the body of the engine, rationalizing that this extra thickness means the piston shaft rides with less pressure on the cam and therefore less pressure on the cap rivets - and presumably for the benefit of the welch plugs as well. Would be interesting if anyone has has a welch plug blow out, although without filming, it may have just fallen out.

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