Really?? Like this? Attachment 191456 I don't recall much banging.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
Agree. Like I said, go with the solenoid first.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
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Really?? Like this? Attachment 191456 I don't recall much banging.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
Agree. Like I said, go with the solenoid first.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
Well I've never broken one, rushes to find wood to touch, so I'll defer to the experts, and stop jumping to conclusions 😁Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
Tony
To be fair, I don't hear so well.... But, the car just stopped. Valves were fine. It is an interference engine but the valves are in a straight line with the pistons. The pushrods, rockers, sometimes the rocker shaft, and sometimes the bronze cam followers can be "sacrificial". On mine it was just five pushrods and those rockers. Replaced all eight pushrods anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
same issue here
the head gaskets themselves dont just about go , but occasionally the bolts relax at operating temp. if your headbolts havent been over re used you can get away with retightening them in the correct sequence one bolt at a time.
the temperature gauge going bananas with the indicators and headlights is usually a body earth fault to the BECM or Dash cluster depending on the year of your vehicle. There is also a junction box attached onto the back of the fuse box, if this gets water in it over time the tracks corrode and if theres mud or dust build up in there as the copper oxide grows tracks can short together which can give you wierd electrical issues, if you disconnect the senders on the block, turn on the indicators and or lights that made the instruments misbehave and they then continuse to misbeave this is a likely suspect.
if the timing belt snaps, you'll bend pushrods or bust rockers occasionally both and sometimes damage a valve. Once the initial carnage is done with you wont hear any new knocking as the cams not turning so new valves are not being introduced to pistons, lift the oil filler and watch the edges of the rockers you can see while you bar the engine over if they move, its not a snapped timing belt, but that doesnt mean the belt isnt on the way and has skipped, Usually that doesnt lead to a no start.
Check the power feed to the solenoid on the back of the IP, if its got 0v with the ignition on then you've taken out a fuse.
if all esle fails, disconnect the solenoid wire and run a direct wire from 12v+ on the battery to the solenoid on the IP and give it a crank with the accelerator held flat, if it still wont fire up crack the injector unions and try again if you dont get spurts out of the injectors you have a fuel issue somewhere. Crack the bleed nipple on the fuel filter and pump away, if you cant get fuel out there then the lift pump has died. Occasionally the little rubber nib on the end of the solenoid gets stuck, you can remove the solenoide remove the nib and spring put the solenoid back and then (with the injector unions cracked open) crank it again, if you're not getting fuel at the injectors at this point you've got issues in the pump or with the timing belt.
Good luck.
