Thread: Temperature Gauge Issue 300tdi

Hi Kyle, and welcome to AULRO.

If the gauge is moving with electrical load, then my guess is an earth problem.

Disco's have two temp sensors, are you sure your looking at the right one?
I assume the second on controls the AC fans, but I'm not 100% on that, my Defender only has one.

The temp gauge in these are "normalised" so thay show middle over a wide temp range, lots of folk fit a gauge that shows true temp.

In my Defender I have a mechanical VDO gauge, my son has a Gauge Innovations block temp and low coolant unit in his Disco.
Engine Temperature and Coolant Level Dash Gauge
– Gauge Innovations

There are a few different brands of units that do similar things

As you have discovered, a low coolant alarm is also a good idea.

Tony

high resistance plug/wiring will show higher temps(is my understanding).
I'd give that plug/wire a squirt with wd type spray to begin with and plug back in to see what happens.

I've installed a aftermarket temp gauge too. (actually a gauge kit).
The gauges use VDO type sensors.
For the coolant sensor, I decided on using the bleed plug, so removed the useless plastic bleed plug, and got a 1/2BSP to 1/8NPT(that what sensor types I got in the gauge kit).

Looks like this ... MADMAN adapter ..... the NPT threaded coolant sensor needs to be the long type so that it reaches the coolant, not just the vapor.
Anyhow, because of the location, being high up, what would happen is that the connector I used, kept rubbing on the bonnet insulation and would come loose. Coming loose would cause higher resistance and I'd see very high coolant temps on the gauge, but no other indication of heating up. It was obvious what the problem was, so I'd pull over and plug the loosened connector again, and back to normal.
In the end I got tired of it coming loose frequently and finally soldered a wire on the sensor with a small lead and now the plug is not rubbing on the bonnet and all is good again.

I can't remember exactly, but I think the coolant sensor electrical plug is a bullet type connector.

Thanks for the help gents, I’ve got an EngineGuard on order through the local Landry mechanic so just going to hope it doesn’t melt between now and next week.

I have a niggling feeling in the back of my head, *pardon the pun* that the head gasket might just be on its way out, it was checked less than 2000km ago and I’m still praying its electrical based not the effect of the indicators and headlights but it’s definitely beyond my ability now.

Will provide you an update for curiosities sake!

On a side note, where is the best place to mount the aftermarket temp gauge for aesthetics purposes in your opinions?

Originally Posted by KyleBudd

I have a niggling feeling in the back of my head, *pardon the pun* that the head gasket might just be on its way out,

They aren't usually on their way. They're blown or they're not. Exceptions exist though. How's the radiator itself?Why did it overheat in the first place? An overheat can dislodge stuff in the jackets that can lodge in the tubes. How did you check the thermostat? Has the injector pump tune been altered?
You say it's not losing coolant etc. I think the first question would be, is it really overheating or is it the gauge telling you it is. D1 is better than D2 in this regard, but it ain't perfect. Definitely recommend an aftermarket gauge/alarm. One with EGT would be even better.
Oh, and I've seen an overheat damage a temp sensor.

Originally Posted by KyleBudd

Will provide you an update for curiosities sake!

Please do, Too few people come back with what they did to fix something ( guilty yer onnor ).

Originally Posted by Tins

They aren't usually on their way. They're blown or they're not. Exceptions exist though. How's the radiator itself?Why did it overheat in the first place? An overheat can dislodge stuff in the jackets that can lodge in the tubes. How did you check the thermostat? Has the injector pump tune been altered?
You say it's not losing coolant etc. I think the first question would be, is it really overheating or is it the gauge telling you it is. D1 is better than D2 in this regard, but it ain't perfect. Definitely recommend an aftermarket gauge/alarm. One with EGT would be even better.
Oh, and I've seen an overheat damage a temp sensor.




Please do, Too few people come back with what they did to fix something ( guilty yer onnor ).

Tina thanks for the reply mate, whole cooling system got checked through in Sydney by a Land Rover mech, I’d just had surgery so placed it in their hands. They replaced everything as I initially listed they found was damaged, the initial overheating was due to a coolant leak.

I was optimistic it wasn’t actually overheating, however yesterday it cut out completely mid drive around 20km/h just leaving a compound, won’t turn back on. Battery is good, no knocking when trying to turn over, just won’t start. She’ll be on a tow truck before lunch. The saga continues.

Check the fuel solenoid 12volt line on the back of the fuel pump.

I can't think of much else that would do that.

Tony

Originally Posted by KyleBudd

.....

I was optimistic it wasn’t actually overheating, however yesterday it cut out completely mid drive around 20km/h just leaving a compound, won’t turn back on. Battery is good, no knocking when trying to turn over, just won’t start. She’ll be on a tow truck before lunch. The saga continues.

Could be the fuel cut off solenoid. Either it's dead, or more likely wiring issue there .. eg. wire/connector come off maybe.

Simple check on the rear side of the injector pump.

Originally Posted by TonyC

I can't think of much else that would do that.

Tony

I can. The timing belt. But I'd go with the solenoid first as well. And it's associated wiring.