Thread: Help with identifying vacuum hose on 1995 Disco1 3.9 V8

On my 1998 Disco, that hose connects to the air filter lid.
The main crankcase breather/filter is on the other rocker cover, I can assume this was
to give some vacuum to this side and keep Pass side rocker clear of engine fumes.
Some do say it is not needed, and either screw or blank off. However, this is how it is on mine.
The other hole on same rocker cover might be a screw fixing hole, there are a few for connecting cable clamps and such.
You can see one with phillips head screw just forward of hose in first picture.
hope this helps.

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What is this electrical connector? Mine is missing the connecting pair.
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There are a couple in that location, hard to see exact colors but looks like brown, and well, similar brown.
You don't seem to have a bonnet intrusion switch, I've marked it on mine with blue arrow. Maybe not an option on 95 model.
This has 3 such connectors, brown and maybe white with a stripe, hard to see, old wiring, in a loop with switch itself.
Also blue and black which could be the feed.
I think we can rule out those as there is no switch on yours.

At the base of the windscreen washer bottle, there is another one, and this has 2 brown wires. possibly the one.
This is possibly for connecting to ABS unit, I don't see an ABS on yours, not on mine either, it is usually located here in front of bottle, this connector on mine is tie
wrapped to the main harness running forward from base of washer bottle, and not connected to anything, so it is not needed. I've marked where it should be with
red arrow.
Hope this helps.

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Hi Ronski G'day mate...

Thank you so much for your response My car is having the common V8 EFI problems, hunting idle, engine cutting out, trouble starting when engine is hot. So I'm still chasing the cause. I'm ordering a Rover gauge scanner & a used MAF from Ebay UK. I need to remove & clean the IACV but don't have the correct tool. Do you know where can I get LR parts in Australia?

Here is pictures of my car, 1995 3.9 V8 with 88,000 original paint and interior. It still runs very well for a 30 years old car, If only I can figure out the fuel mixture problem.

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My goal is to make it look like a Revell Machine Disco
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Originally Posted by IndoRover

Hi Ronski G'day mate...

Thank you so much for your response My car is having the common V8 EFI problems, hunting idle, engine cutting out, trouble starting when engine is hot.......

Instead of explaining a lot of possible reasons, I think will be easier to just watch this video.

Croker on YTube

1hr video, he explains all the small details, you can skip some parts if you just want 'relevant' info instead of some entertainment too.
It was only posted yesterday too .. so almost like he was expecting you to watch it.

Originally Posted by AK83

Instead of explaining a lot of possible reasons, I think will be easier to just watch this video.

Croker on YTube

1hr video, he explains all the small details, you can skip some parts if you just want 'relevant' info instead of some entertainment too.
It was only posted yesterday too .. so almost like he was expecting you to watch it.

Thank you Arthur, I will definitely watch it

Great video, way too many things for us to explain.
I'm not sure if the picture you first posted is actually your vehicle or just one from internet.

Here's a quick one to start, There is a base setting for idle control valve, set in factory, in picture it is blanked off with aluminum cap.
After 20 odd years, the Idle system can become clogged with carbon, burnt fuel deposits etc. The control valve then is constantly fighting
the idle revs up and down trying to maintain 600 rpm (700 usa)

Remove this cap, drill or tap small screw in. Underneath is a 5mm allen key adjuster. to allow more air in, unscrew.

To start, attach allen key, make a note of original position, handy to go back if adjusting does nothing.
Start engine, when warm, unscrew 1/2 turn at a time. See if the revs increase, The idle valve (ICU) will then return revs back to 600 very quickly.
Try another half turn out, again, see if revs increase before it is changed by valve. Do not keep going with this, I've found a full turn out usually sorts it (or not)
Too many adjustments can get confusing and mess it all up. Remember, if you replace Idle control valve and clean out the system, you may have to return this screw to original
position.

If this does increase initial revs, then remove key and go for a drive, see if idle improves, (remember, half turn at a time, don't go past one and a half turns,) if not, return screw to original setting.
you could also repeat test by turning half turn in, but I've never seen that work unless some one has messed it up before.
It's an easy quick thing and may help the hunting at idle.
Seriously, it's a 30 year old Rover engine, many, many things that it could be, watch video, work your way through things.

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I've used your picture to show where this screw is, note cap to be removed, also the hose to the idle control valve is cracked. These hoses become very hard and brittle due
to the heat, difficult to remove without cutting, make sure you have replacement on hand.
Hope this helps.

Hi Ronski,

I have watched the video and will definitely go thru all the steps to properly refresh a 30 years old engine. So far I have been buying parts from Ebay in US & UK. Can you recommend an Australian online shops that sell LR parts?

Thank you for pointing that bridle hose...one more part to buy I'm still waiting for my Rover gauge scanner & IACV & used MAF to arrive. I will adjust the idle screw and mark it before adjusting.

On that video, the person was doing the test on the ECM per factory workshop instruction. Do you know if that is in the workshop manual or electric manual?

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Thanks a lot Ronski, you have been a great help