Not more than the oil light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
Tony
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Not more than the oil light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
Tony
you can get to the bolts without dropping the trans or lifting the engine, theres a blanking plate on the front at the bottom of the flywheel housing. you can also get to them enough to check them through the starter hole from memory.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
Flex plate bolts are tight.
To remove the sump WSM states loosen bolts, run a thin knife between sump and block to cut the sealant, remove bolts, remove sump.
Clearly the author had the motor out of the car.
The block to flywheel housing brace covers the rear third of the block/sump join, preventing getting a anything in there and no access at the rear.
The front of the RH side I've got a Stanley knife in as far as the outer edge of the bolts, then the sump is metal to metal, a knife isn't going in there.
I've gout the RH front corner loose, but I fear I'm bending the sump.
Anyone removed a sump?
Given up for today, too hot!
Tony
you wont bend the sump, just the wings of it, they're easy enough to knock back straight after the fact.
on over selastic'd sumps or well doped gaskets that have had the dope go hard I'll tap in disposable box cutter blades in between the studs and bolt holes. Once Ive got the blades in I poke in zip ties as I pry it open with a prybar or screwdriver.
I also usually start at the front corner.
If you've drained the oil and have the drain bunk out, dont mind the mess once you have a small slice started you can work your way through with a gurney.
Hi All,
I've got the sump off, thanks Dave for box cutter trick.
All big ends have movement, no. 4 is by far the worst.
What clearance should a bigend or main have?, not this much I'm sure.
Anyone had this and just swap the bigend bearings?
Also a few bits of metal in the sump.
Tony
Usually measured in thousands of an inch, not thousands of pieces..Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
If you can feel it by hand, it's excessive. I'd be looking at a failure in the oil pressure department.
Loss of oil pressure is nearly always caused by worn bearings.
We are talking about a Land Rover, here. [bighmmm]Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
I'd certainly be checking the pump and any possible leak that could cause a loss of oil pressure.
nowhere near that much.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
those chunks might be whats left of thrust bearings., your mains will likely be toasted as well.
you can do a reshell if theres not too much damage to the crank and none of the rods are out of shape from spinning. Its an engine out job to do it properly. once you have the crank out you need to mic it up to assess the bearing size .