 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						Flex plate bolts are tight.
To remove the sump WSM states loosen bolts, run a thin knife between sump and block to cut the sealant, remove bolts, remove sump.
Clearly the author had the motor out of the car.
The block to flywheel housing brace covers the rear third of the block/sump join, preventing getting a anything in there and no access at the rear.
The front of the RH side I've got a Stanley knife in as far as the outer edge of the bolts, then the sump is metal to metal, a knife isn't going in there.
I've gout the RH front corner loose, but I fear I'm bending the sump.
Anyone removed a sump?
Given up for today, too hot!
Tony
you wont bend the sump, just the wings of it, they're easy enough to knock back straight after the fact.
on over selastic'd sumps or well doped gaskets that have had the dope go hard I'll tap in disposable box cutter blades in between the studs and bolt holes. Once Ive got the blades in I poke in zip ties as I pry it open with a prybar or screwdriver.
I also usually start at the front corner.
If you've drained the oil and have the drain bunk out, dont mind the mess once you have a small slice started you can work your way through with a gurney.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						Hi All,
I've got the sump off, thanks Dave for box cutter trick.
All big ends have movement, no. 4 is by far the worst.
What clearance should a bigend or main have?, not this much I'm sure.
Anyone had this and just swap the bigend bearings?
Also a few bits of metal in the sump.
Tony
If you can feel it by hand, it's excessive. I'd be looking at a failure in the oil pressure department.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Loss of oil pressure is nearly always caused by worn bearings.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
nowhere near that much.
those chunks might be whats left of thrust bearings., your mains will likely be toasted as well.
you can do a reshell if theres not too much damage to the crank and none of the rods are out of shape from spinning. Its an engine out job to do it properly. once you have the crank out you need to mic it up to assess the bearing size .
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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