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Thread: 300Tdi engine knock

  1. #11
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Ok, that's my theory out the window. You check the oil pressure by any chance?
    Not more than the oil light.

    Tony

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    Tony
    you can get to the bolts without dropping the trans or lifting the engine, theres a blanking plate on the front at the bottom of the flywheel housing. you can also get to them enough to check them through the starter hole from memory.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  3. #13
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Flex plate bolts are tight.

    To remove the sump WSM states loosen bolts, run a thin knife between sump and block to cut the sealant, remove bolts, remove sump.
    Clearly the author had the motor out of the car.

    The block to flywheel housing brace covers the rear third of the block/sump join, preventing getting a anything in there and no access at the rear.

    The front of the RH side I've got a Stanley knife in as far as the outer edge of the bolts, then the sump is metal to metal, a knife isn't going in there.

    I've gout the RH front corner loose, but I fear I'm bending the sump.

    Anyone removed a sump?

    Given up for today, too hot!

    Tony

  4. #14
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    you wont bend the sump, just the wings of it, they're easy enough to knock back straight after the fact.

    on over selastic'd sumps or well doped gaskets that have had the dope go hard I'll tap in disposable box cutter blades in between the studs and bolt holes. Once Ive got the blades in I poke in zip ties as I pry it open with a prybar or screwdriver.

    I also usually start at the front corner.

    If you've drained the oil and have the drain bunk out, dont mind the mess once you have a small slice started you can work your way through with a gurney.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Hi All,
    I've got the sump off, thanks Dave for box cutter trick.

    All big ends have movement, no. 4 is by far the worst.

    What clearance should a bigend or main have?, not this much I'm sure.

    Anyone had this and just swap the bigend bearings?

    Also a few bits of metal in the sump.

    Tony
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post

    What clearance should a bigend or main have?, not this much I'm sure.
    Usually measured in thousands of an inch, not thousands of pieces..
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

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  7. #17
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    If you can feel it by hand, it's excessive. I'd be looking at a failure in the oil pressure department.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  8. #18
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    Loss of oil pressure is nearly always caused by worn bearings.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Loss of oil pressure is nearly always caused by worn bearings.
    We are talking about a Land Rover, here.
    I'd certainly be checking the pump and any possible leak that could cause a loss of oil pressure.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    Hi All,
    I've got the sump off, thanks Dave for box cutter trick.

    All big ends have movement, no. 4 is by far the worst.

    What clearance should a bigend or main have?, not this much I'm sure.

    Anyone had this and just swap the bigend bearings?

    Also a few bits of metal in the sump.

    Tony
    nowhere near that much.

    those chunks might be whats left of thrust bearings., your mains will likely be toasted as well.

    you can do a reshell if theres not too much damage to the crank and none of the rods are out of shape from spinning. Its an engine out job to do it properly. once you have the crank out you need to mic it up to assess the bearing size .
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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