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Thread: Small bodylift?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Pialba, Qld (near Hervey Bay)
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    Question Small bodylift?

    Just wondering what would be involved in a small bodylift of around 30 to 40mm, you know, brake lines, electrics etc. Also how easy to do at home?
    Thanks
    p.s. Forgot, its for the last of the D1's (early 99)

  2. #2
    mcrover Guest
    Not a lot, cut some alloy blocks the length you want, get longer High tensile bolts adding the length of the spacers and loosen off all the body mount bolts but only remove 1 side at a time, jack up that side and slide the mounts in and fit the NEW bolts with new NYLOC nuts and washers etc.

    When youve done the first side, dont tighten the bolts, just do them up until they are nearly contacting and then do the other side the same.

    Once all the new spacers and bolts are in then you can tighten them all up.

    Anything up to about 30mm with a 50mm suspention lift is about the limit for the standard brake hoses but you should just have a look after you have fitted the lift and see if you need to change them.

    The other thing to take into account is that if you have SRS airbags then you cant legally do a body lift and it may void your insurance in the event of an accident so I would check before getting underway with it.

    The next question is, why do you want a body lift, are you planning on fitting 35's?

    Also where are you? if you fill out your location then people may be able to direct you to someone near yo who could give you a hand.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I did a 30 mm lift on my Rangie (similar to D1). I fitted a new (longer) rear brake line and a new (longer) clutch line. I had to drill two holes for the radiator top mounts and redo the seat belt mounting point bracing. Apart from that, all plain sailing.

  4. #4
    mcrover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    I did a 30 mm lift on my Rangie (similar to D1). I fitted a new (longer) rear brake line and a new (longer) clutch line. I had to drill two holes for the radiator top mounts and redo the seat belt mounting point bracing. Apart from that, all plain sailing.

    Sorry forgot about the radiator and we just used a big washer and nut on the seat belt so probably not the safest, the lift I saw done/helped with was an auto so It didnt need a longer clutch line and the rear line seemed ok but then again I dont know if it's still going, it wasnt my car.

  5. #5
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    Talking

    Thanks guys, its just a thought at the moment & seeing how easy/hard it would be to do.
    Why - just looking at ways of getting just a tad more clearance apart from susp. lift.
    Thanks again

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Invermay Tasmania
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    Spring spacers are cheaper but then again I am looking at a body lift also but around 2.5 inch lift


    Adam

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by agrojnr View Post
    Spring spacers are cheaper but then again I am looking at a body lift also but around 2.5 inch lift

    Adam
    Whats the price difference there? I've only owned IFS & leaf sprung 4b's before (FJ55, 86 & 89 Pajs, Explorer) so don't know to much about "spring" suspension.
    thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Well a Graham Cooper body lift is $680 plus delivery (not installed) and you can buy steel spring spacers on ebay for $50 a pair plus delivery.

    Spring spacers are really only used to get the landy level.

    You also have to be carefull as most states rule both these as illlegal or you may need to get an engineers cert.


    Adam

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Very glad I found this thread my brother has recomended that I have my Landy lifted just a little and I also have full car insurance with RACV so I will call RACV Monday to see if it will afect my insurance policy.

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