not sure my heights between guard and tyre i run a pretty aggressive tyre here is a photo of mine sitting fairly flat and flexed with the wheel up in the gaurd just touching IMG_0793.jpg
big river 002.jpg
i was looking for the body height flat ground, not the ground clearance from the diff, i know that this is just a guide but i wasn't overly concerned with ground clearance. If you don't have the room on top of the wheel you wont get it under it either. and not knowing what was the normal body height was my question.
Also whats involved with fitting bigger tires? obviously the guards body lift etc, is there any school of thought about how these bigger tires impact on the diffs etc, is an upgrade of the shafts and centres necessary or just showing off?
Last edited by kingyrules; 7th April 2008 at 08:36 PM. Reason: thought of other stuff
not sure my heights between guard and tyre i run a pretty aggressive tyre here is a photo of mine sitting fairly flat and flexed with the wheel up in the gaurd just touching IMG_0793.jpg
big river 002.jpg
yeah i think i'm going to have to think up another way of telling if mines lifted and if so how much. i hate the fact i bought it from a dealer they don't know squat about what the last bloke did and don't care as long as they get the cash. i might have to go and look dumb and ask 4x4 guy that fixes my boo boo's.![]()
how big can you go tyre wise on a d1 with stock diffs?
There's a lot of variables involved that affect the driveline, tyres only being one of them. Now the larger tyres have an effect in increased loads to get the vehicle moving due to the weight and larger rolling diameter.
Shock loading is what kills drivelines, a madly spinning wheel suddenly finding traction, stomping the loud pedal when in a low gear etc. That said, LR engineered the driveline with a couple of weak spots. The axles are generally considered to be weakest point. You can upgrade the axles with items such as Maxi-Drive units and not worry about breaking them...ever.
If you're putting in the axles you then ask yourself, 'What about doing diff-locks at the same time, do I do one or both?' This also addresses another point, the diff carrier. Stock ones are lightweight in comparison to the ones in locker kits.
Then with all that, if you're going bigger than say 32s you should start thinking about gearing changes and how you want to achieve that be that through diff centres or transfer case gears.
Many options and ways to skin this kitty.
HUMMM. this all sounds a bit rich for my blood ATM.
i might have to wait till that big lotto win![]()
Just one thing at a time mate. It's just that you need to know where you want to head, ideally. That way you can save up and get a whole lot of work done at the same time in the same area. For example, if you want to go 35s you'd save to get axles, diff locks and gearing (if doing CW&P) at the swame time.
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