Thread: annoying hot/warm starting problem

Check the ignition module they get hot and develop a dry joint.

Garry

The throttle plate is inside the plenum chamber, remove the flexible hose between MAF and Plenum and you'll see it. Clean the MAF and this at the same time.

thanks!....OK, will do a bit of cleaning and checking and will update here in a few days.
Thanks for all the advise so far

OK,
have done a fair bit of cleaning as advised by various members, it does not seem to have made much difference.
As yet I have not replaced any sensors.

One thing I should also mention is that it is booked in for LPG conversion/addition, so perhaps I should wait until the LPG has been fitted and see if that makes any diff although the kit I am getting does have fuel start then auto switch over to LPG so it may not make any diff.......
I have opted for the manifold tanks (SCUBA style) in the rear cargo area as I have no problems at all about loosing a bit of storage space height, besides it gives me a nice new project fabricating a false floor and I might even add a drawer or two
Since my D1 is fitted with an after market 110L petrol tank I do not wish to loose that.

I am heading o/s until end of September so the LPG will not be fitted until my return and will update here once its up and running on LPG.

an update on my what was continueing idling and hot start problem.
Today I replaced my injectors as well as fuel pump/sender unit, problem solved.
I could not believe how dirty the injectors were, not to mention the injector seats on the fuel rail. I did run injector cleaner etc but still the dirt was amazing.
Also, the PVC coating inside the injector seats on the fuel rail were perished.
Luckily I had a spare 2nd hand fuel rail, so I replaced the fuel rail, new set of recon injectors, new fuel pump/sender unit and hey presto, all my idling and hot start problems are solved.
Also, my stepper motor was loose which would not have helped things, so now I locktite the bugger!!

For your information, I found a really good injector recon place out of the USA, they flow match each set of injectors and supply a report with the set, as well as a 'cheap' supplier of L/R fuel pump/sender units, Bearmack brand, out of the UK, PM me if you want to get more details.

Mty Disco is finally going in for LPG next next, I am retaining my existing long range fuel tank, am having the 'SCUBA' tanks fitted in rear cargo area.

Can these get fuel vapour lock. I do not know, only ever had this problem on a vw bettle, just wondered.

I have not heard of a pressurized fuel injection system suffering from vapour lock, if there was 'air' in the system, I would think it would 'purge' itself, but am not sure.
There is a 'relieve/purge' valve on the fuel rail, looks like a bycicle tyre valve, pushing the valve pin down allows fuel to spurt out, not quite sure why that is provided, maybe for 'cleaning' or checking if there is fuel in the rail?

Originally Posted by Romulus

an update on my what was continueing idling and hot start problem.
Today I replaced my injectors as well as fuel pump/sender unit, problem solved.
I could not believe how dirty the injectors were, not to mention the injector seats on the fuel rail. I did run injector cleaner etc but still the dirt was amazing.
Also, the PVC coating inside the injector seats on the fuel rail were perished.
Luckily I had a spare 2nd hand fuel rail, so I replaced the fuel rail, new set of recon injectors, new fuel pump/sender unit and hey presto, all my idling and hot start problems are solved.
Also, my stepper motor was loose which would not have helped things, so now I locktite the bugger!!

For your information, I found a really good injector recon place out of the USA, they flow match each set of injectors and supply a report with the set, as well as a 'cheap' supplier of L/R fuel pump/sender units, Bearmack brand, out of the UK, PM me if you want to get more details.

Mty Disco is finally going in for LPG next next, I am retaining my existing long range fuel tank, am having the 'SCUBA' tanks fitted in rear cargo area.

I had this happen on the Classic not too long ago. Was more related to crud from the fuel rail rust sticking under the regulator seat causing a lower rail pressure plus fine crap in the injector cups and that jelly that forms from moisture.
Waited till it got to about 1/3 tank, put in 3L of metho and cleaned it beautifully. Always a good idea to change the fuel filter if you get that much fine stuff in there. Have found that the filter element tends to separate from the housing a touch from moisture getting trapped in it and every little thing just goes straight thru.

There is a 'relieve/purge' valve on the fuel rail, looks like a bycicle tyre valve, pushing the valve pin down allows fuel to spurt out, not quite sure why that is provided, maybe for 'cleaning' or checking if there is fuel in the rail?

For checking fuel pressure.