Thread: Long arms or drop boxes?

With the 4 inch lift I have it doesn't sway and is great on dirt. I have however put it down to the tyre which I run. The old tyres which I got rid of were awful on road and on dirt and made the car feel very undriveable.

My rims are also offset.

I did initially think it was the lift etc. and I'm sure as standard with the old tyres it would of been driveable but not with the lift and tyre combination.

Originally Posted by Xavie

With the 4 inch lift I have it doesn't sway and is great on dirt. I have however put it down to the tyre which I run. The old tyres which I got rid of were awful on road and on dirt and made the car feel very undriveable.

My rims are also offset.

I did initially think it was the lift etc. and I'm sure as standard with the old tyres it would of been driveable but not with the lift and tyre combination.

That has also been a consideration as I did fit new tyres to the rear a while back and had a similar thing. It all really came down to the fact that is was the blocks of rubber moving around. My new tyres have about 2000km on them now and will have about 400km by the end of the holidays. I won't be doing any major work to the car until then, but I guess I'll know if putting a decent amount of miles on the tyres makes a difference

2" lift at the front will move the front wheel back approximately 1.5mm - based upon radius arm being approx 33" long from chassis mount to centre of axle housing.

2" lift at the rear will move the rear wheel forward approximately 1.7mm - based upon trailing arm being approx 28" long from chassis mount to axle mount.

In total the wheel base will shorten between 3 and 4 mm.

You could easily fit washers between the chassis mount and flexible mount for the trailing arms and another washer on the radius arms ahead of the large washer at the chassis bush to correct the slight wheel base change.

I have run 33" muddies and currently have 265/75R16 on my disco with 3 to 4" lift, without castor correction. I have no desire to change anything as I don't have an issue with how it drives.

Drop boxes would be difficult to do and I doubt they would be worth the trouble/expense in your case.

Wow, it really looks like alot more than that. The physical centre of the guard to the wheel looks very rear bias on the front and vice versa if you get what I mean. Might look at the washers, but as far as castor was concerned, the was a noticable difference in pinion angles and it was viabrating before I fitted the blocks, also the steering feels much more directs since doing them. It was a bit wishy washy before.

Originally Posted by Boxer

Wow, it really looks like alot more than that. The physical centre of the guard to the wheel looks very rear bias on the front and vice versa if you get what I mean. Might look at the washers, but as far as castor was concerned, the was a noticable difference in pinion angles and it was viabrating before I fitted the blocks, also the steering feels much more directs since doing them. It was a bit wishy washy before.

What was the condition of the old radius arm bushings like?

It is very likely that they were the problem. Other causes are; swivel bearing pre-load, panhard bushes or a combination of all these.

Because the u-joints on the front driveshaft are out of phase, correcting castor with lifted suspension can lead to vibrations from the driveshaft.

With large lift when caster can be a problem, it is best to realign the swivel balls so pinion angle can stay up where it needs to be for the u-joints.

3 inch at the front of mine....

All I can Say is...........








D2 FRONT SHALFT

D2 FRONT SHALFT

Originally Posted by hook

3 inch at the front of mine....

All I can Say is...........








D2 FRONT SHALFT

D2 FRONT SHALFT

umm???

shalft

Tail.