Thread: suspension lift help

One thing is if you do the lift blocks yourself you will need to get them engineer approved which can be a hassel, Also to my knowledge the brake line uns along the axle on the disco so you should be sweet there!?

Ok thats good to Know,so i dont have to worrie about steering,and other stuff,
Thanks for ur help on that, Cheers Brad

Ask "Fusion" he did a 30mm body lift resently

I have installed body lifts in disco I and RRC. Haven't had anything to do with disco II. There are a number of other issues besides blocks at the body mounts.

What disco do you have?

Originally Posted by Bush65

What disco do you have?

John, this might help:
My New 94 Disco

1" seems a bit pointless IMO though - 2" is the norm & LRA do a 2 1/2" kit.

Thanks Scouse,

Based upon a manual 300Tdi Disco I update version (I assume 94 will be same or very close). V8, 200Tdi and autos may have small differences).

Some things are a little easier if the lift is small.

Besides the 10 blocks at the body mounts, you also need suitable height packers at the chassis rails for the rear tray area (if you neglect these the body mounts in front of rear wheel arches will fail) and front floor.

The Tee bolts between chassis and seat belt anchorages (2 at rear and 2 at front) need to be extended.

A spacer is needed to lift the rear brake line above the diff pumpkin. Brackets are needed to lower the front brake lines on inner guards. Take care when bending the brake pipes - just use you hand (soft surfaces) and spread the bend over a reasonable distance. Alternative is to get longer hoses (teflon lined SS braid is best) - they must be ADR approved.

Depending on the height of lift, the hose for the clutch slave cyl may need extending.

Spacers are required for the top brackets that support the radiator and intercooler - the radiator has stay at the same height relative to the engine. You may also need to lower the power steering reservoir.

Brackets are required to lift the front and rear bars.

An extension is required for the Hi/Lo/difflock lever. This lever and the gear lever need to be removed so they can be bent (so they will clear each other and the tunnel/centre console opening.

Before starting to lift the body, remove centre console. There is a large rubber dust/water seal over the tunnel opening that is fixed to the top of the gearbox (around the gear lever). Remove the plate and screws that fix the rubber to the gearbox - if you lift the body before doing this, you will need to buy a replacement rubber.

Also before starting to lift the body, remove the clamp bolts from the u-joint at the steering box/shaft and give the splines are good spray with wd40 or the like. You may need to remove the shaft and extend the groove where the bolt fits.