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Thread: D1 Oil Cooler Pipes

  1. #1
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    D1 Oil Cooler Pipes

    My D1 auto transmission cooler pipes are leaking where the rubber joins the metal part. I know you can get new crimped pipes made up by Enzed or Pirtec for about $160, but is there any reason why I can't cut the metal pipes and isert 1/2 inch ID high pressure rubber oil pressure hose secured with good quality jubilee clamps at each end?

  2. #2
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    I looked at this issue when I bought an auxillary oil cooler (although I have not installed it). Somewhere along the way I heard the ZF gearbox runs at higher than usual pressure - but this needs confirmation from an expert. I imagine you would need to swage the ends of the metal pipe to help the rubber pipe staying on.

  3. #3
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    There was a thread recently about temperature gauges for a ZF trans, and from memory the pressure was about 150PSI.
    Personally I would just pay to get proper ones made up. While the hose/jubilee clip arrangement might work OK, if it DID fail you probably aren't going to realise until all the oil has been pumped out and you are stuck on the side of the road. If it also happened to damage the trans then you'd kick yourself for not doing it properly.

    Steve

  4. #4
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    Try this guy

    Gary - CLR 4WD Parts
    0412 663 751
    or check his ebay shop - eBay My World - garyclr4wd

    I bought a set of brand new genuine engine oil cooler pipes off him for a third the price I was quoted elsewhere.

    Really good guy to deal with, cheap, reliable, fast.

  5. #5
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    ps: tell him Boxer sent you

  6. #6
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    My Rangie just has the flexible hose held to the steel pipe with hose clamps and does not have a problem.
    I spoke with Andrew at Les Richmond about it and he said although it is better to have crimped hoses, it is very common just to have the rubber hose held on with hose clamps.

  7. #7
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    My local Pirtek man has made entire hoses for that amount. To get that sorted wont be expensive. If you take the part off and bring it into Pirtek will only cost you $70 or similar. They will cut the fitting off and braze a new one back on and rejoin/crimp. Its all very straightforward for them.

    Personally I wouldn't just flare and clamp it. I've had too many issues on my D2 with that setup and it does damage every time you drop the ATF.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  8. #8
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    Not sure why, but apparentyly the D2 runs at a lot higher pressure than the D1 or RRC.

    But you are right Simon, it does not cost a lot to get it done properly and is worth doing.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by walker View Post
    Not sure why, but apparently the D2 runs at a lot higher pressure than the D1 or RRC.
    After chatting with Ian, we suspected that it may have had to do with the change from a single pass tube ATF cooler to the more regular type and the associated pressure rise. Something else which I noticed when fitting a ZF to my Landy was that there has also been an increase in the line size somewhere along the line.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  10. #10
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    But that would mean the pressure would only be on one side f the cooler????

    If what you are saying is right then it is a bit of a worry, because I am upgrading my cooler to the radiator type which will sit on the back of the ute with a thermo fan. If you are right then the pressure will increase and maybe should be putting in larger diameter pipes??

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