Thread: Bearings

I thought they all took grease unless they were converted....I didn't realise they had changed them to oil at a later date

they'll be grease.
They'll be stuffed.
you should convert to oil filled if your stub sealing face isnt rooted.

Ok grease it is and yes i am sure in late 98 they went to oil in the later models...i will happily stand corrected!

Well as for them being stuffed what would i be looking at to fix them?

Originally Posted by Grover-98

Ok grease it is and yes i am sure in late 98 they went to oil in the later models...i will happily stand corrected!

Well as for them being stuffed what would i be looking at to fix them?

No, they went away from oil to grease in the late eighties/early nineties

To fix 'em you'll need a pair of new bearings per side (inner taper rollers, outer races x 2) and a hub seal, (RTC3511 recommended from the early models, not the late model stuff) that's if, as Dave said, you haven't stuffed the stub axle already.
A new locking tab per side, and the drive flange paper gaskets too. Most use silicone or similar, I like the paper gaskets as they are cheap, do the job, even with oil and come away clean when servicing (I hate scraping silicone) and if continuing to use grease use a very good high temp wheel bearing grease, or convert to oil while you are there. This means pulling the stub axle and removing the seal in the back face of the stub axle and run oil in the swivel hubs/CV's.

once they converted to grease they stuck with it.

your going to need new bearings a new seal and its one of those things that since you have to pull it all apart you check a heap of other things and replace them too.

IT takes about an hour a wheel do to it IAW best practices, if your practiced are only doing the bearings and you have a full workshop at your disposal its about 20 mins a wheel + about 1/2 an hour to put it up on the hoist, bleed up the brakes and then put it back down again.


before you start you'll need the follwoing tools
a 52mm socket for the bearing nuts and the following parts per side
a full socket set
a pair of circlip pliers
a torque wrench that deals in the 30-150nm range
a set of ring open end metric spanners
a pair of small pry bars to back the brake pads off (most people use a screwdriver)


2x wheel bearings
hub seal
drive flange gasket
drive flange bolts (you can re-use them I try not to)
grease for the bearings
loctite 242


the procedure has been discussed many times on the forum along with howto convert back to oil filled bearings.