how to bend rocksliders to follow the body line...

the idea behind all this is heat?? heat is what changes the molecules in the steel that causes the contraction??
thats why i mentioned pad welding.. oxy welding adds heat so does pad welding. i just cant see how stitch welding SHS or RHS will change its shape EASILY.
so i did a test.
1 piece of 50x50x3 SHS (what i make sliders out of for disco's) welded 3 times down its length of 9'', result, no contraction/distortion at all. the only time it distorted was when it was quenched, as you can see it move, once it cooled it was back to straight.
http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/44...600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/33...600x600Q85.jpg
the second is a piece of 40x4 FMS welded 2 times down its length of 9''. this contracted once quenched and remained bent when cool,,,by bugger all mind you. over 9'' there is a difference of 2mm.
http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/42...600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/44...600x600Q85.jpg

so unless im doing something wrong i cant see how your method would be easier than a cut and weld?
im not saying that bending via rollers is not a good practice, i just believe that for your run of the mill backyarder who wants to knock a set of sliders up on the weekend the easiest practice is to cut,bend and weld.

cheers phil

Try welding across the tube not along it a couple of hot welds making sure to get the edges hot.
Also if you run the weld along the courners (2) of the box not the centre that will also bend it as you need to bend the sides not the centre as it wil flex.

Can I just say another thing. By the time we have all worked out what is best, welded half a dozen runs onto the RHS, quenched it, then ground the welds off and then hit it with a flat wheel to get it looking normal again. I reckon I could have a set knocked up

By using the simple and easy method of cutting and welding it :p

Geez fellas I know your out to prove a point but aren't there bigger problems in the world. When the time comes Tim will do what he reckons is easiest for him no matter what we say ;)

Now I shall run away while you all have a go at me :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

Can I just say another thing. By the time we have all worked out what is best, welded half a dozen runs onto the RHS, quenched it, then ground the welds off and then hit it with a flat wheel to get it looking normal again. I reckon I could have a set knocked up

By using the simple and easy method of cutting and welding it :p

Geez fellas I know your out to prove a point but aren't there bigger problems in the world. When the time comes Tim will do what he reckons is easies for him no matter what we say ;)

Now I shall run away while you all have a go at me :p

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thats my point exactly.

cheers phil

hi guys
Made mine from round tube 48mm OD 4mm wall thickness .Purchased tube bender and all material for less than $350.00 . Attached to chassis rails with crush tubes very strong can be jacked off (oh did I really say that!!!) . They look a lot like ARB ones but are much stronger and half the price and I effectively got the bender for free.

When i said run a bead/ heat it with the oxy, i ment across the RHS
Imagine this is a piece of RHS viewed from the top, and these, ; , are were it is getting heated, (or having a bead ran), all the way across the top face every 6" or so.
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; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ;

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After heating each area quench it with a wet rag, and hey presto you have a gradual bend.

I'll even go as far to bet Kevin Rudd's left n#t that it will work:wasntme:

Cheers,

Tim

I also meant to weld across the SHS, not along it. Imagine each weld doing the same job as a sharpish press tool pushing in one spot and bending the tube slightly. The fact that you got 2mm of distortion Phil, proves that the concept works.

Once again the discussion has shifted to "what is easiest" when the original question was "how to". Five or six different methods have been suggested, all will work, whether it is worthwhile or not, can be decided by the person doing the job.

Cheers Charlie

I think the cut and re-weld idea sounds good to me:cool:
The rolled idea would probably be the neatest but also most expensive;)

TIM.

Here's my 2 bob, this needs min 1 mate to help,
Get a good bit of timber and belt 2 nail where the straight length is to be before the bend and then a third where the bend will end look a bit like this
.
. . pretend there the nails.
Now by this stage your mate is on his 2nd beer out of your fridge, heat where the bend is meant to be and put steel under nails on timber, get mate to stand on steel length to hold it there, he now is holding his third beer and a bucket of water, cool steel to third nail and ask mate to tip water over the bend, he does this and yes gets more water in your boots and the floor than on the steel but he tried and it worked sorta. stand back and assess, look at mate who says it looks great as he heads to the fridge, if there is no re-bending move onto the next, it should only take 6 beers time, now you better feed your mate.
Just a thought, they will look great when there finished.:D.

ps cool steel in right spots so steel does not warp in the wrong direction, :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chazza

I also meant to weld across the SHS, not along it. Imagine each weld doing the same job as a sharpish press tool pushing in one spot and bending the tube slightly. The fact that you got 2mm of distortion Phil, proves that the concept works.

Once again the discussion has shifted to "what is easiest" when the original question was "how to". Five or six different methods have been suggested, all will work, whether it is worthwhile or not, can be decided by the person doing the job.

Cheers Charlie

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and where in any of my posts did i say it didnt work?