Thread: D1 cranks but no start help needed

If you have spark ... and fuel ... then start at the beginning

Take out all 8 plugs & dry / clean them
Reinstall plugs
Start motor in the following way .....

Turn key & start motor for 1/2 second ... Then turn off key
Restart motor again for 1 second .... Then turn key off

If then "no go" ... Put foot flatout on gas pedal .. turn key to start and see if it fires up


You can't keep it cranking over for long periods ... as it floods & drowns the plugs




Also .... IF you take out the plugs and they are wet // This will be a sign that your getting fuel

Let me know

Mike

If you removed the dissy to fix the springs, is it possible that you put the dissy back into the wrong timing position? The dissy rotates slightly when you withdraw or insert it, so it's easy to do. You can check that it's right by taking the plug out of number one cyl, turn the engine over by hand with your thumb over the plug hole to feel you are on the compression stroke, then check to see the piston is at top dead centre. The rotor should be pointing to number one lead in this position.

Nah I didn't pull the dizzy out just rebuilt in situ. I have double checked the timing and its been set to 6 degrees as the workshop manual says. I am starting to think it just wants a full service before it will start. Land rovers and their personalties. This car has had no TLC for years now its getting some its turned into a sook. (Note to self stop buying land rovers). My rangie did the exact same thing was off the road for nearly two months.

Not sure if this helps but I had the exact same symptoms in two seperate cars and it turned out to be the Crank Sensor both times.

Failing that, I'd be following logical process as Mike 90 RR sugests.

You might want to check the ignition timing as the haymes manual has the timing at 2 BTDC at idle for the 3.9 .In the manual it shows 6BTDC for the 3.5 motor. We have a 95 disco and its timing is at 2BTDC .
Might just be worth checking out .

Originally Posted by British Bulldog

Nah I didn't pull the dizzy out just rebuilt in situ. I have double checked the timing and its been set to 6 degrees as the workshop manual says.

So ...you used a timing light, to set the timing after you rebuilt it?? .... Which means that the Timing light registered a spark pulse on Num 1 spark lead??

You never did let me know, if my first suggestion worked or not !!! ... were the plugs wet when you pulled them out???

Also ....Spark leads that leak spark and short out everywhere, would starve the spark leads ... and the car will not fire up at all

Mike

"While replacing the rotor button the center shaft lifted up slightly. This stopped the cap going back on so I pulled it down and found that the springs in the bottom had come off so I put it all back to together."

This is common; the outer shaft is only held down by a small plastic clip which clips into a groove at the top of the inner shaft. When removing the rotor button, if it is a tad tight, the plastic clip can pop off or break (they get brittle with age) and the whole outer shaft lifts up, popping the 2 springs off the centrifugal advancement weights as it does so. Then, as you have done, you have to remove the whole pick up assembly (after removing the flash shield) and clip the springs back in place.

Have you checked the pick up air gap?

Check there is no damage to the reluctor (the star wheel which gives the pick up it's signal - they are sensitive).

Are you sure you didn't refit the outer shaft 180 degrees out, as it is symmetrical at the base where it mates with the centrifugal advancement mechanism?

I'm sure it's nothing major, good luck!

hey mike i have done nothing to the car as of yet been busy at work i have the no 1 plug and its terrible black and wet i think it will need new plugs and leads and dizzy cap before i can any further.