Thread: hair line crack in diff

Originally Posted by matthewk

hey guys

i found oil to be leaking out of my front diff houing froma hair line crack

is it just as simple to grin out the crack and re weld the diff?

or how would you go about welding the diff??

Just be VERY careful. These sort of repairs need to be attempted by someone familiar with preheating and structural repairs if the crack is longitudinal along the axle tube weld/s. You need to see the differential housing as a suspension support/ member really.

I have just replaced a housing as the repair done was incorrectly carried out and the axle tube began to crack around its circumference

IMO you should replace the housing as they have become quite cheap now secondhand, bare.


JC

Originally Posted by justinc

Just be VERY careful. These sort of repairs need to be attempted by someone familiar with preheating and structural repairs if the crack is longitudinal along the axle tube weld/s. You need to see the differential housing as a suspension support/ member really.

I have just replaced a housing as the repair done was incorrectly carried out and the axle tube began to crack around its circumference

IMO you should replace the housing as they have become quite cheap now secondhand, bare.


JC

heres the pic of it of where its cracked 20-30mm long from the front looking to the back , as a boiler maker i figure if i drill 2 smal holes at each end it stops the crack drain the oil out
weld it as hot as i can it should be fine for a while while i have the gearbox to rebuild im getting low on $$$$$$ with this bloody rover i tell ya


http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/q...5/IMGP0900.jpg

http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/q...5/IMGP0903.jpg

Originally Posted by matthewk

heres the pic of it of where its cracked 20-30mm long from the front looking to the back , as a boiler maker i figure if i drill 2 smal holes at each end it stops the crack drain the oil out
weld it as hot as i can it should be fine for a while while i have the gearbox to rebuild im getting low on $$$$$$ with this bloody rover i tell ya


http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/q...5/IMGP0900.jpg

http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/q...5/IMGP0903.jpg

That crack in that area of the diff isn't as critical as an axle tube one. Glad to hear you know what you are doing, so yes, go right ahead and die grind it out, preheat and weld away
If you ever end up removing the housing for any reason, maybe an external laminate over the bottom half of the pumpkin and axle tubes would be a good option for future strength and protection.

JC

I advocate brazing as opposed to any of the arc welding processes for any repair to the cover housing to the banjo part of the diff.

but other than that drill it, clean it and weld it.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I advocate brazing as opposed to any of the arc welding processes for any repair to the cover housing to the banjo part of the diff.

but other than that drill it, clean it and weld it.

Good point Dave, but I thought it was closer to the welded section, it was hard to see exactly especially on the second pic.

JC

Originally Posted by justinc

Good point Dave, but I thought it was closer to the welded section, it was hard to see exactly especially on the second pic.

JC

the crack itself is infact on the weld from the manufacture if this helps

I really couldn't tell from the pics where the crack is.

Normally I would expect any crack to be in the weld, so I assume that is where this one is.

You will have a problem with oil contaminating the weld, no matter how well you clean the diff out.

A good boilermaker should be able to handle a cracked weld in that position.

I would recommend preheat even though the steel is relatively ductile.

Originally Posted by Bush65

I really couldn't tell from the pics where the crack is.

Normally I would expect any crack to be in the weld, so I assume that is where this one is.

You will have a problem with oil contaminating the weld, no matter how well you clean the diff out.

A good boilermaker should be able to handle a cracked weld in that position.

I would recommend preheat even though the steel is relatively ductile.

I'm pleased you said that john because I couldn't see it either