Thread: Weak Winch

def sounds like it needs a good service and a check for internal wear/damage

I found this thread have a look see if it helps you out

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...h-rebuild.html

thanks for finding that, DB!

Wouldn't be suprised if the wiring is shagged like Jock's, that'd explain it...

Will pull it out sometime and have a tinker

The 'ticking' noses was probably the solenoids...

After time, the contacts will corrode, especially if dunked in water on a regular basis.

M

They are not sealed particularly well and suffer from water entry.

It can contaminate the grease lube and cause corrosion in the gearbox. The planetary gearbox is not very efficient even when everything is new, and suffers badly when the lube becomes gunk or the numerous moving parts are corroded.

It can get into the brake, which is inside the drum, which may not release properly when winding in - it is always on when powering out.

It can get into the drum bearings.

It can get into the motor.

If the mounting surface for the winch is not dead flat (by eye is not good enough), the mounting bolts will pull the drum bearings out of line and result in extra drag - I have seen them where the motor could not turn the drum with no load on the rope, because the bull bar had a small bend in it.

Edit: IMHO, you should have an earth lead from the motor that goes back to the battery post. I don't like to rely on earthing through the winch housing, bull bar and chassis.

Urrch - I just looked at hose pictures in the rebuild thread. That was nasty

If I were you I'd have a go a pulling it apart. It's not rocket science, and you've not got much to lose. Post up some photos of the internals when you get it apart.

A 9000 Lb will pull a Landie through deep mud etc, so worth getting it sorted if you are going off road.

Hope it turns out to be something simple.

Think we may be onto something...

Both my primary and secondary batteries are stuffed, have been since i bought the car. If i start and drive daily, it's ok. But leave it for a day and she'll need jump-starting.

Now my old man was saying something about when batteries are knackered, they'll create a lot of internal resistance and the winch won't be able to draw enough current through them. Seems to make sense.

Also, with the car off, i tried running the winch (with no load on it) and it behaved similarly to my test setup. Struggled to turn and had the solenoid clicking like mad!

So as a lot of you blokes say, i'll start with the simple stuff. Replace both batteries, give it another test and see how it goes.
Will be a wee bit expensive, but a lot easier than pulling the winch out (looked like a bullbar off job?)

Thanks again for ya replies!

edit: can also confirm it's a Warn XD9000. what's the general opinion on these?

Originally Posted by Bush65

It can get into the brake, which is inside the drum, which may not release properly when winding in - it is always on when powering out.

This is what my XD9000 has done