DI Diff Loc indicator

sailors_mission · 9th October 2009, 06:45 PM

Thanks John,

Going out to check all that out now. Will let you know how I go.

Rich

Originally Posted by Bush65

AFAIK, 99 was the change over year and disco I's were still available in early 99.

For sailors_mission, tail lights on disco II are higher (up around window level). Disco I tail lights are lower (below window level).

If disco I, the knob on the high/low lever has a diagram on top to show the hi/lo and lock/unlock positions. But sometimes the knob gets twisted around to the opposite orientation and could miss-lead.

The lever should be across to right to unlock and to left to lock (forward for low, rearward for high).

The indicator lamp is meant to represent 4 wheel drive - it has lines to represent the 4 tyres and lines to represent the axles between tyres and driveshafts between axles - like a 'H' character.

If the lamp is on, it is still possible that the centre diff is not locked, but that is not the case here.

The centre diff is locked by the action of a spring, not directly by the lever and linkage (the linkage merely pushes on the spring to increase the spring pressure).

If the indicator switch is sticking or adjusted down too far, the spring can not lock the diff.

If it hasn't been used much, the linkage can stiffen up and not lock.

Mud and gunk can build up around the linkage and prevent the diff locking.

If the plastic pivot bushes are worn, the linkage can loose motion and not push the spring far enough.

If the pivot bolt is not adjusted properly ....

First check around the linkage to ensure the area is clean - right side of gearbox and above front drive extension housing of transfer case. Check from underneath vehicle, no need to pull anything off, but may need a light/torch.

Spray the linkages liberally with WD40 or similar.

Engine off, chock wheels, jack under front axle and lift front right tyre just clear of ground. You should be able to rotate the tyre that is off the ground with centre diff unlocked, but not when the centre diff is locked.

While the tyre is still jacked up, shift the lever to the diff lock position. Then listen underneath, close to front of transfer case while you rotate the front right tyre. You should be able to hear the diff lock click in as it is locks and the tyre will stop rotating. Shift lever to unlocked, rock the tyre forward/back and you should hear the diff unlock.

If you hear/feel (through the elevated tyre) the diff lock/unlockclick and the light doesn't come on or go off, there is a problem with the switch, lamp or wiring.

You said:

If you buried the front, then the centre diff was most likely locked. Usually when you fail to proceed, if the diff is unlocked, the front tyres do not turn and one rear spins.

BTW, always lock the centre diff offroad when the surface is loose, rutted or rocky. You need to avoid prolonged spinning of any tyre while ever the centre diff is unlocked - this leads to wear and rapid failure of the centre diff. It won't harm the centre diff if the tyres spin when it is locked.

sailors_mission · 9th October 2009, 06:47 PM

Thanks Dannie,

Checking it out after I check out the lock/unlock issue.....

Rich

Originally Posted by Siska

Welcome to the forum and to W.A.

The light on the dash should come on when you engage your center diff lock.

Check out the WA section The WA AULROians Group - Australian Land Rover Owners for upcoming trips and happenings.
There is an easy little trip happening this weekend.

Cheers

Dannie

sailors_mission · 10th October 2009, 03:53 PM

Gary,

Update: Ok - been underneath my 1/99 stamped TDi:

1. First check around the linkage to ensure the area is clean - right side of gearbox and above front drive extension housing of transfer case. Check from underneath vehicle, no need to pull anything off, but may need a light/torch.
Did this - no visable foreign matter and reasonalby clean - gave it a WD40 bath, wiped down and recoated. Confirmed linkage responding to diff lock lever being moved into both H and L. No noticable signs of wear and tear ( me thinks the previous owner may not have engaged it before ). Jacked both R & F right hand side wheels - confirmed both being driven ( able to hold front from turning also ) when in Drive ( H&L ) with Diff not locked. Engaged Diff Lock ( able to hear and see movement but no actual lock. Wheel movement unchanged from when testing in Unlocked status. Unable to obtain a lock status no matter how I go about it. Went a brought the Haynes manual but it has no helpful diagram or picture of the linkage assembly. Can you point me in the direction of such a picture or drawing? Is there anything that I have missed so far??

R

**dullbird** · 10th October 2009, 04:02 PM

So its not putting the light on when you lock it in High or Low ?

sailors_mission · 10th October 2009, 04:23 PM

No, mainly due to the fact the there is a problem actually getting it to lock in the first place, or lack there of..... Been reading a few threads and some owners are mentioning linkage may stick due to lack of use ( previous owner ). If this is the case, would the linkage allow any sort of play when moving back and forth from DIFF UL to L ( both H, L & N )? Because I can see, hear and feel the movement of the linkage.

Originally Posted by dullbird

So its not putting the light on when you lock it in High or Low ?

**dullbird** · 10th October 2009, 04:36 PM

I'm really not sure to be honest...

is the lever really hard to push over? or is it easy? have you pushed it over and held it with a small amount of pressure just to see if you can get the light on even if it wont stay locked?

I'm sure someone will pipe up and answer the questions about the linkages...

When I first started using my lever it was tough to move over.....we just man handled it and after one or two uses it pushes over easy as now still have to give it a positive push left to right but much much easier with the use

sailors_mission · 10th October 2009, 04:40 PM

Thanks mate, was hard to push over at first but seems to be getting easier - still no light.... I'm going back out now to give it another wd40 bath and let that soak in a bit... will let u know the outcome.

Originally Posted by dullbird

I'm really not sure to be honest...

is the lever really hard to push over? or is it easy? have you pushed it over and held it with a small amount of pressure just to see if you can get the light on even if it wont stay locked?

I'm sure someone will pipe up and answer the questions about the linkages...

When I first started using my lever it was tough to move over.....we just man handled it and after one or two uses it pushes over easy as now still have to give it a positive push left to right but much much easier with the use

**dullbird** · 10th October 2009, 04:46 PM

I have no idea if it would make any difference or not...but I will say it anyway.

are you just doing it stationary? if so perhaps try it on the move...I have no idea whether or not it would make any difference but until someone says so might be worth a try.

**Bush65** · 10th October 2009, 05:15 PM

Here are pics of the centre diff lock linkage. 1st is with the diff unlocked, 2nd is locked.

3rd pic is exploded parts diagram of front drive assembly.

There is a lever running vertically on the right side of the gearbox. The bottom end is bent back like an 'L'. From the bottom there is a link made from rod bent like a 'U' on its side. This connects the 1st lever (beside gearbox) to a short lever (item 34 at top left of diagram) on top of the front drive extension of the transfer case.

When the driver moves the lever to the left to lock the diff, the vertical lever pivots about a pin and pushes the short lever (34) on top of the extension housing around (away from the gearbox).

**Bush65** · 10th October 2009, 05:21 PM

Originally Posted by dullbird

I have no idea if it would make any difference or not...but I will say it anyway.

are you just doing it stationary? if so perhaps try it on the move...I have no idea whether or not it would make any difference but until someone says so might be worth a try.

It does make a difference if it is stationary. Getting it to lock when stationary is like winning lotto.

That is why I said to jack up the front right wheel and to rotate the wheel by hand.

BTW I did not say to jack up any other wheels - the other 3 need to be on the ground.

Edit to add quote from post above

Engine off, chock wheels, jack under front axle and lift front right tyre just clear of ground. You should be able to rotate the tyre that is off the ground with centre diff unlocked, but not when the centre diff is locked.

While the tyre is still jacked up, shift the lever to the diff lock position. Then listen underneath, close to front of transfer case while you rotate the front right tyre. You should be able to hear the diff lock click in as it is locks and the tyre will stop rotating.

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