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Thread: Water pump? radiator? thermostat? resevoir cap?

  1. #31
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Well spoken Ben ..... & Dave on the money as usual....

    Titan Tyres .... So the radiator is still the original one // never been cleaned
    No such thing as a visual "Good flow" ... The more the cores are blocked, the faster the coolant moves past the bung hole = "Good flow"??

    Do the Sniffer test
    Get the Rad rodded and cleaned


    My RRC played up like "Mary Hell" .... and displayed all the symptoms of head gaskets ... It took a new radiator & and the understanding of how to manipulate the fill method of the cooling system, to get it right again

    Why did it (Your ride) play up after you replaced the water pump?? ... Probably the radiator was heavily blocked and when you removed the old pump, bits of old gasket and metal flakes, from that area, was sent to the rad cores to seal it's fate ...... When working on opening up and replacing pumps, hoses, ect .. I always put a sock filter (chicks leg Stocking) in the top rad hose to catch the debris

    Mike

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Northcote, Victoria
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    I have suffered all the same Symptoms you describe TT. The following recitified the heating issue, plus got rid of that damn water trickle noise in the dash. For the record, I have a 96 V8 duel fuel.

    1. Had the radiator gas test - OK
    2. Had the system pressure tested - No leaks but radiator over 60% blocked
    3. Had the radioator removed and rebuilt

    This sorted the cooling issue, and for the first time I could also get the Roar of the fan pulling air through. Not sure if it wasn't working or if just no air was comming through, but it's all good now. Perhaps it was to do with the Serpentine belt being incorrectly fitted, I don't know.

    But, it didn't get rid of the water trickle problem much to my disappointment. That was fixed when I loaded up the truck and took it on a very hot day up very very long hills (bitumen). One of the heater core hoses blew (the ones over the drivers side rocker cover) and emptied all the water out. I put a new hose on and filled it just as Mike 90 RR has described (sans the top bung) and now I have no heating/cooling issues, or water noise in the dash................or had........

    Took it to get it serviced at a previously reputable establishment, asked them to check everything was kosher with the cooling system (was running on water alone), they send it back with water trickle noise and over pressurised (too much water, didn't bleed it porper like) with fluid pooring out the resevior cap. This was after driving it 20kms from their service centre in North Melbourne to the ALLGAS guys (Highly recommended for servicing.....it's a long story but by god they are good and actually give a toss) in Tullamarine.

    So I took it back, told them not to let the apprentice work on it, take the time to do the job properly, and whilst they are at it, replace the front break master cylinder that now seems to be ****ing break fluid, actually replace the fluid instead of simply charging me for it and not actually doing it, and put the distributer cap on properly (only secured on one side).

    Anyway, the idea is, check out the simple things first before automatically assuming a head gasket, and when filling it, have patience and do it right.

    Good luck.

  3. #33
    Titan Tyres Guest
    Ok Got the sniffer test/tk test done today all sweet in that regard have ordered new viscous and radiator.

    The viscous is actually that far rooted the mechanic stuck his hand in and spun it back in the opposite direction!!!!!

    Really appreciate all the replies and thoughts so far will let you know how we get on when all this gear is fitted on monday.

    Again cheers.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    you know, these issues concerning LR cooling systems on Discos especially are so B* common, and the system is so marginal that owners really need to build into the service schedule, or create a service schedule say every 4-5 years whereby the rad is rodded (100 - 150 bucks), the fan coupler is tested (eg., with heat gun on bi metallic coil) and the thermostat is simply replaced (12-15 bucks).

    That would save many owners from horrendous expense from damaged overheated engines.

    So, write it into your LR service schedule now

  5. #35
    Titan Tyres Guest
    Ok so we came to a realisation this afternoon picked up the Disco and in 18 months of owning this chariot its never made that bloody fan on steroids noise so I imagine the viscous was rooted from day dot.

    Suffice to say there isnt a LR SPECIALIST in CASINO worth a crumpet but in the interim thanks for all your replies and hopefully we are issues resolved!!

    Cheers

    Bear.

  6. #36
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Titan Tyres View Post
    and hopefully we are issues resolved!!
    Glad your sorted ....

    all issues resolved??, you haven't seen / tracked the oil leaks yet, ....



  7. #37
    Titan Tyres Guest
    Oil leaks ..... Dont wish that on me!!!!

  8. #38
    Titan Tyres Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Titan Tyres View Post
    Oil leaks ..... Dont wish that on me!!!!

    All of 6 days and back to square 1 .. HOT HOT HOT!

  9. #39
    mike 90 RR Guest
    I know you've had enough of this subject ....



    1: Have you removed and bypassed the heater hoses going into the cabin heater??
    2: Are any of your carpets damp at the footwell area at the center console?? (Leaking heater core)
    3: Have you been hearing any "Marble rolling sounds" at the dash board area??
    4: Has the mechanic used a pressure pump, to see if it's holding pressure??
    5: Have you been monitoring the coolant level every day??
    6: Are you using LPG??

  10. #40
    mike 90 RR Guest
    And lastly ... Are you sure the mechanic tightened up all the hoses .... Especially the bottom rad hose ... as these can start to leak when the rad heats up and the clamps and hoses settle into place after a day or 2

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