Thread: Should I tackle a "96" V8 Engine rebuild??

Other than the oil leak, does the engine have any other problems (smoke, power loss...).
How many Km on it too?

If all seems OK, then trace & repair the oil leak. If it's the inlet manifold gasket/end seals (common) then check out the camshaft & lifters while you're in there. If they need replacing (common again after approx 100000km), then do them too.

Thanks Scott, yeah its done about 240K so is getting on a bit, no smoke or power loss. Has not had any work done to it? has not had any other problems apart from when i tackled a deep puddle and sucked water into the air intake!, but i dropped the oil and cleaned him out and was on my way again.

Hi.

Of course you should have a go at the rebuild.

Sounds like you have the time, motivation and ability.

You won't know what you need to repair/replace 'til it's stripped.

About to embark on a similar project with my son's L28 Nissan Patrol motor. Sort of an adventure.

Go for it!

(Scary but, eh?)

The camshaft and lifters should be replaced on these engines when rebuilding or looking at them after 100,000km, as they 'float' and the lobes wear out. Mine in a 1987 RR had no lobes left to speak of on two cylinders (passenger side), but it was still running (sort of) ok.

Use a 6 point socket on the cylinder head bolts (ie the socket is against all of the bolt flat), otherwise they will most probably be stripped. Look at the impact wrench sockets, as these are usually 6 points, rather than the more usually 12 points. Due to the expansion rate on these engines, a special loktite is used (272 - high temp , high strength) to ensure that the bolts don't work loose. This makes the force needed to 'crack' them quite a lot. I used a 3/4 adaptor and a length of water pipe and there was a lot of torque required before they let go.

Other than that, its the normal engine rebuild requirements. Ensure adequate oil in the engine before restart, clean out the radiator (back flush etc) when you take it out or get it cleaned professionally, get the cylinder heads done by a professional rebuilder, use quality parts etc.

Look at the items that wear out or deteroriate - water pump, heater hoses etc that are a pain to get to normally and replace these as part of the rebuild.

There is a good website "RPi Engineering - Specialised Rover Engines" (rpi engineering) that used to give good advice on the rover v8. From recollection,they indicated that the outer bolts on the cyclinder head shouldn't be tightened even to the spec'd torque, as these bolts cause reliability problems. (they may not be on your engine, but they were on mine) However, make your own mind up about this.

Originally Posted by bsperka

The camshaft and lifters should be replaced on these engines when rebuilding or looking at them after 100,000km, as they 'float' and the lobes wear out. Mine in a 1987 RR had no lobes left to speak of on two cylinders (passenger side), but it was still running (sort of) ok.

Use a 6 point socket on the cylinder head bolts (ie the socket is against all of the bolt flat), otherwise they will most probably be stripped. Look at the impact wrench sockets, as these are usually 6 points, rather than the more usually 12 points. Due to the expansion rate on these engines, a special loktite is used (272 - high temp , high strength) to ensure that the bolts don't work loose. This makes the force needed to 'crack' them quite a lot. I used a 3/4 adaptor and a length of water pipe and there was a lot of torque required before they let go.

Other than that, its the normal engine rebuild requirements. Ensure adequate oil in the engine before restart, clean out the radiator (back flush etc) when you take it out or get it cleaned professionally, get the cylinder heads done by a professional rebuilder, use quality parts etc.

Look at the items that wear out or deteroriate - water pump, heater hoses etc that are a pain to get to normally and replace these as part of the rebuild.

There is a good website "RPi Engineering - Specialised Rover Engines" (rpi engineering) that used to give good advice on the rover v8. From recollection,they indicated that the outer bolts on the cyclinder head shouldn't be tightened even to the spec'd torque, as these bolts cause reliability problems. (they may not be on your engine, but they were on mine) However, make your own mind up about this.

Thanks Bsperk! great advice I will purchase a 6 point socket. Would you know of a good place to buy the camshaft/lifters etc? Its bloody hard living in good old Gladdy to get parts!! but I do a run to Brisbane every now and then.
My 1 week old "02" Disco 2 has just in inherited the old "3 Amigos" problem with the Abs modular so I recon I'll be an expert Disco mechanic pretty soon!!!!