Thread: the real truth

Any car, and especially a 4wd, that is 10+ years will probably leak a bit from somewhere.
Landys do like to leak a bit of oil here and there, BUT with good maintenance they don't have to.
I personally don't think they are any worse than any other 4wd.
Mine has a couple of leaks, but none ever drip to the ground and I don't use any fluids.

Increasing power from a Tdi:
Since it will have a mechanical (not electronic) controlled injection pump (unless you find a rare import), you can tweak the pump to move more fuel.
Can be done on the standard setup, but best done inconjuction with a better intercooler and silicone piping to give more air flow.
Setting up the pump well will give more power AND better fuel economy.
Going crazy you can get a variable nozzle turbo (VNT) from a 2.8L International engine and get better low down go.

The last of the 300Tdi Discos was 1998, some registered in 1999.

Why do you want a LR D1? Is it the cheap purchase price? It can be a false economy - buy cheap and keep spending on it. At the end of the day, you will be better off if you can increase your budget and purchase a low km, late model D2 with books. So don't fall into the "Cheap buy" trap!

Originally Posted by jmkoffice

Why do you want a LR D1? Is it the cheap purchase price? It can be a false economy - buy cheap and keep spending on it. At the end of the day, you will be better off if you can increase your budget and purchase a low km, late model D2 with books. So don't fall into the "Cheap buy" trap!

Not all of us can afford a D2 or D3 or D4!! or even want one!!

I was after a D1 cause I only have 10k to spend. I don't want to stretch my budget too far, as I have heard of the electronic gremlins with the TD5 that I would then not be able to fix. I figured I better off getting a really nice D1 than the cheapest D2 I can afford.

Shane

There are good reasons why someone would prefer a D1 to a D2 other than "electronic gremlins" or cost.

Essentially the D1 is mechanically an RR Classic, and as such there are a vast supply of parts that are cheap and fit. What is often not realised is that although it looks similar, the D2 is in most respects a completely new design, and very few bits fit any other model (engine and gearbox shared with the Defender of course), which means they are expensive, in some cases very expensive. For example, with the D1, the wheel bearings are replaceable - with the D2, you have to replace the whole hub.

Of course, the D2 has the advantage that it is a newer design, and they will mostly have done less kilometres.

John

Originally Posted by nice1guv

Not all of us can afford a D2 or D3 or D4!! or even want one!!

Amen to that Ol' son. In a recent survey overseas on which defender would you prefer..the 300TDI won hands down with 70% voting for it.Also a leading FWD Australian magazine said in a preview on it some years ago ..."what a mighty little motor".
Cheers,
John

Originally Posted by nice1guv

Not all of us can afford a D2 or D3 or D4!! or even want one!!

Fair enough. Do your sums over a period of years and see what adds up.

Originally Posted by jmkoffice

Fair enough. Do your sums over a period of years and see what adds up.

Remembering to include the cost of capital and depreciation. For almost any car around 50% or more of the cost per kilometre is the depreciation and capital cost. It varies of course with the vehicle and the mileage you do, but in general the capital cost and depreciation decrease with age and the maintenance costs increase. While depreciation does not vary much with your useage or situation, the cost of capital is quite variable, particularly if you qualify for it to be tax deductible.

John