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.... you should have bought a RRC then .... :D another "luxury" item :DQuote:
Originally Posted by wolvespaul
Either drop the tank or maybe wait for another AULRO member to give a better method / solution
BTW .... did ya do the prime start / then start it up, method this morning?? ... did it start up OK??
Mike
Lift your back carpet, undo the tin hatch, remove the pump assembly (Depressurise first!!!) then a siphon hose outside to a catch tin. Then you can swab out what you can reach with a lint free rag, and maybe its time for a new pump (VR Commodore repair kit or similar, Bosch part no. F000TE1772-486). What's in your filter has been thru your pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by wolvespaul
Thanks for the idea on start up , went 1st time this morning:D:D
I have put a meter across terminals on coil and im only getting 7.6 volts.
if i go for - on battery to + on coil i get 12 volts, if i go other way round with + on battery to - on coil i get 7.6, is this a problem the coil?
i have now drained the tank and cleaned it out, the fuel pump has only been replaced in the last few weeks, so wont be putting another in.
Going to fill it up with some premium and a bottle of injection cleaner and see how i go.
Just remember that injector cleaner should not be installed in a car thats sitting around for weeks doing nothing .... as it is hard on all things in the fuel system ... think Acid in a tank (Harsh I know / but give's you the idea)Quote:
Originally Posted by wolvespaul
Always best used on long runs
Best of luck
Mike
Unsure ..... Electrics is not my strong point ...... sounds as tho you have a resistored coilQuote:
Originally Posted by wolvespaul
But you did say that the coil is the original and it performed OK before + you mentioned that your spark is a healthy Blue colour ....
Are you using a Bosh GT40R by any chance??
original lucas coil is fitted.
I know where i can get a second hand one to check it, the spark was a nice blue colour
Your voltage readings are right, the -ve side of the coil is switched by electronics so doesn't have to be the same as battery -ve. So 12V from +ve to battery -ve is good.
To test a coil I remove the coil lead from the coil, insert a paper clip into the coil, arrange 12mm gap to a metal body part. Crank engine, look for healthy loud crackly spark. If you can only raise 6mm consider the coil weak. You are testing the coil under max stress, don't do this for long. Also don't do this with a coil lead as it will reduce the visible spark length, especially with inductive core leads.
Coil function in a car is not all about peak voltage, its about transferred spark energy. That's one reason why your plug gaps are small around 0.8 to 1.1mm not 12mm.
I have tested the coil with a paper clip, had a gap of around 12mm or so to the body and cranked over, seemed to make a good cracking spark for the 1st second or so then it seemed intermittent, is this usual as it has not fired up??
Can you service the injectors yourself or do you have to take it to a fuel injection shop?
Do any other injectors fit?
If it doesn't keep up the spark I would be replacing the coil and/or amp. Dunno how many of those wretched things I've replaced, I would imagine if a jap manufacturer made electrics this bad they'd go out of business...
I prefer to get rid of the lucas rubbish, see my post on a Bosch amp/coil conversion if you want reliability.
See: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...sch-024-a.html
Injectors: I had a set of D1 injectors left over after an engine swap, then a Falcon EB came in with 5 dead injectors (still ran on gas) so I fitted 6 of the disco injectors and it ran a treat. So swapping should work, but don't do it unless you are sure you can make every joint leakproof. Else your truck turns itself into a cinder.
I'l see if i can find a coil to test it with, the amp is only a month old.
Might be better getting some service exchange units if cheap enough.