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Thread: Cooling system in D1...types of coolant and checking coolant levels???

  1. 23rd February 2010, 03:58 PM #1
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    Cooling system in D1...types of coolant and checking coolant levels???

    I am starting to check everything when I get time to make sure my new Disco is up to scratch. First off the coolant level seems to be slightly down from where it looks like it should be. There is a star shaped rod sticking up inside the coolant reservoir...am I right in assuming the COLD coolant level needs to be up to the top of this rod?

    The coolant looks like it might be half full. The car runs at temperature a little over 1/4 so I'm not worried about overheating or anything because of it, I just want to make sure it's right.

    What are some things to look out for with the cooling system? I remember people saying you can sometimes get some burning under the cap and that means the radiator is stuffed...or something to that effect.
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  2. 23rd February 2010, 04:33 PM #2
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    most common on the D1's is the failure of the cap and cracking of the tank.

    the OEM coolant is an ethyl glycol mix at about 33% I recommend the nulon stuff

    your assumption about the level being over the top of the start shaped probe when cold is correct.
    Dave

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  3. 23rd February 2010, 04:38 PM #3
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    Do a search on cooling or radiator and you should have heap of threads to look through. The Good Oil section has a lot of advice. Did you car have the manual come with it, if it did have a look at that and should tell you what you nead to know.
    Cheers, David.
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  4. 23rd February 2010, 04:44 PM #4
    PhilipA
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    I run 50% Nulon longlife in distilled water in my RRC 3.9 and my radiator has now lasted 10 years. Hard to believe I have had the car that long.

    And yes the "pole" is the cold coolant level. I am assuming it is a V8.

    Mine is using about 10-20Mill per month now, which I think is coming out of the ends of the heads. Get on ya back and have a look with a torch and you may see some drools . Another favorite is the lower rad hose ends as the clamps are hard to get at. Another is to lift the passenger side carpet and sound deadener and see if any moisture. If there is it is a "goddammit" moment as it means the heater core is leaking. Also get a torch and look at the sides of the radiator inside the fan cowl..
    If a diesel look at the "P" gasket.

    Regards Philip A
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  5. 13th March 2010, 07:48 AM #5
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    Not wanting to hyjack your thread YA, but just for information I just had my radiator rodded and it was 40% blocked!! No wonder it was starting to get warm when going up hills.

    Im about to buy some Nulon glycol (green stuff) to put back in too.
    Carlos
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  6. 13th March 2010, 01:33 PM #6
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    Well my temp gauge sits pretty nicely a bit between a quarter and halfway but the engine bay feels like it gets pretty hot just when I open up the bonnet and sniff inside. I don't know if these motors get pretty hot under there normally but perhaps this is a sign that I should get the radiator rodded just to be on the safe side...
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  7. 13th March 2010, 05:30 PM #7
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    Mate, my temperature guage doesnt move from mid point, even tho the temp was going up. I know cos I have a Engine Saver and it kiks off at 100 degrees. So I dont go by the guage anymore, I just look at the Engine Saver temp display

    Chances are you are in the same boat, its worth the $150 or so just for piece of mind at the worst.
    Carlos
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  8. 13th March 2010, 07:33 PM #8
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    Haha what good is that temperature gauge then?!?
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  9. 13th March 2010, 07:47 PM #9
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    no good!

    dont EVER rely on it,,,

    they will stay still untill the last then shoot up to HOT, then its stuffed. D2's are the same.

    Lots of good ways around this,,
    A few even advertise(sponsor) this very site!



    I would check EVERY ONE of Phillips comments.
    Great advice.
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  10. 13th March 2010, 07:59 PM #10
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    Mine sits around the halfway mark all the time, it smells too hot all the time, I had my rad rodded and that helped somewhat. So far i've replaced all hoses, blew an expansion tank, replaced a cap, had a sniffer in the tank whick went off its nut so I replaced the head gaskets. She still got warm so I got the rad rodded, probem solved. The guy who did the job said the radiator was on its way out, almost 2 years later and she's getting hot again, I stuck my hand in the viscous fan and it stopped, I'll be changing that this week.
    Now, when it gets really hot the temp gauge moves, sometimes when I turn left the gauge moves.What do you do?????
    I've had my vehicle for nearly 10 years now so I can "feel her".
    Good luck, rodding is good.
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