lower my disco

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Originally Posted by Basil135

SPARE TIME?? :eek: What's that? :eek::eek: :D

However, if you do happen to have time that is not previously occupied with other things, I reckon the voltages on the SLABS input from the dash button might be a go as well.

I was thinking today, we also need to know if it is a constant input voltage, or momentary, and the SLABS has the smarts to take it from there.

Good luck... Given half a chance, I might get a moment before the race starts to check voltages...

Another thought that I have had...

When lowered with the remote, the car has to be running, with the doors closed etc.

The times I have lowered it "manually" by lifting the back & waiting for the sensors to pick up that the back has risen, allowing the air to be dumped from the bags, the car would re-inflate the bags as soon as it was started again. This has me wondering if the ride height part of the SLABS has to be over-ridden by the input from the BCU to tell it to "sit & stay".

As Big Kev would say "I'm excited...":wasntme:

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couple of things to comment there.
the dash" offroad switch" is a momentary switch, hit once to raise, and hit another time to lower. yes that car has to be running, and the doors all closed, same for offroad mode lift and the remote. my feeling is the remote does the same as the offroad switch but drops rather than lifts the rear. so the more i think about it, the more i think we need the voltage measured by the offroad mode switch.

:) i too have manually lowered the rear by lifting on the rear bar and deflating the bags.
the sit and stay is pretty much a given while the engine is not running. the compressor doesn't come on, so wont lift itself back up. however the car does still stabilise itself downwards i have seen up to 1/2 hour after engine is stoppped. take something heavy out of the car and it sits itself back down, or even disconnect caravan etc.

so, had another thought. the SLS levelling sensors are probably just pots, and if thats the case, why not just bypass them as required with another pot and turn the pot to the desired height.

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Originally Posted by Rosscoe68

so, had another thought. the SLS levelling sensors are probably just pots, and if thats the case, why not just bypass them as required with another pot and turn the pot to the desired height.

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According to RAVE:
"Each sensor operates on the Hall effect principle. A magnet is attached to the shaft and rotates with movement of the
arm. The magnetic flux generated acts on a Hall effect sensor and depending on its position varies the current across
the sensor. This current is measured and amplified and passed to the SLABS ECU as a linear output voltage signal,
which varies depending on the angular position of the sensor. The signal information is processed and the ECU can
determine the vehicle height."

Not a simple pot it seems, but a pot may have the desired affect.
I need to do a bit of tinkering on the weekend.
First though, I must find out how a Hall effect sensor works.
Google here I come.
Keep the great ideas coming.:cool:

in about a week i will be swapping over to new airbags and will do some testing on the mentioned sensors at that time and post the results here

Just thinking out loud here:

Perhaps you could use one of the sensors (or two, mounted one on top of the other might work better) mounted in the dash or something, then you wouldn't need to worry about sending the wrong voltages and/or currents to the SLABS ECU.

Anyway, just an idea:angel::p.

I pulled the connector off the SLABS ECU with the intention of checking some voltages.

One look was all it took for me to shake my head, and put it all back together again... Then I got the M & S lights flashing their green bits at me... They reset ok, and I am thinking that I will leave the ECU well alone.

So, the thinking has changed to your idea of a 3 position switch on the dash.

Position 1 - Normal operation (Electrical connections straight thru)
Position 2 - Stay mode. (Stays in the current position. Effectively disconnect the sensors)
Position 3 - Lower mode. (Flick the switch, ECU reads that the car is too high, and dumps the air.)

I have to get my head around the actual wiring, but on the surface, I think this might be the easiest way.

Watching with HUGE interest... 8-)