Not much of a LR specialist if they didn't check for oil in the injector harness and couldn't work out why the engine is overheating. I wouldn't trust any work they did!
Turning the heater on does nothing for the flow as the coolant flows through the heater all the time. There is no coolant tap/valve in the heater circuit.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Not much of a LR specialist if they didn't check for oil in the injector harness and couldn't work out why the engine is overheating. I wouldn't trust any work they did!
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
yes I agree, I am most likely going to take of things myself from now on, especially as the information available on AULRO seems far superior and readily available. I used to play a lot with cars/engines when I was younger and have had to do an engine transplant in a fiesta, and a clutch in a Honda civic so I'll have to get the tools out again for the head on the disco
Hi Eileen,
Sorry to say I think yes it is a head gsaket leak if it looses any coolant AT ALL when under load, and the hoses are quite hard, then that is a pretty fair indicator. If your vehicle is manufactured prior to 2001 then it is a good bet that the dowels have failed at some point and the head shifted, causing the gasket to loose its 'seal'.
I also agree that since some other issues weren't picked up, then you should start doing this work yourself,(Although I have seen plenty of these with oily looms that run just fine) as at least you know it is done right. Of course all of us here are only too happy to help if you get stuck/ have questions. Take a look at Psimpson7's tutorial about Td5 head removal/ refitting. It is a great referrence.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Eileen
As an adjunct to what Justin's described, I had this happen shortly after buying my car and feared the worst - however a good 'bleed' of the cooling system via the screw in the top hose resolved this and I've had no problem like this since.
Fingers crossed for you!
Cheers
Mike
'00 D2 Td5 'Alice'
'03 V6 Freelander 'Phoebe'
'04 Td4 Freelander 'Harry'
Well...
I had a look at it when nick bought it round last night and we are still pretty confused!
Oil in the harness probably wasnt helping but there really was only 2 errors logged... cleared them and they have gone.
Nick says that it hasnt 'overheated' since last week. Had a good look around and it looks like the tensioner is screwed... it bounces around all over the place and sounds like its clattering against something when the a/c is on. The electric fan is on with the a/c and goes off when the a/c is off. dont know if it runs continuously with the a/c tho.
The water level was low but not very low... and as nick has changed pipes etc etc recently i'd say that its very likely there is a shed load of air in the pipes which is taking time to come out. It also had the dreaded green coolant in so Nick will change that out for decent red stuff.
There is evidence of leaks all over from the pipes that he has replaced but there looks like a leak from the back of the water pump too. I seem to recall there being issues with water pumps?
As the issue is intemittent do you think a water pump issue could cause it? maybe the pump cavitating? just thinking out loud!
Nick also went for a drive with the nancom logging... max water temp was 93 but stayed fairly consistently at around 90, interestingly the EGR modulator never activated that i could see... everything else seemed fairly good.
The Rad cap too i wasnt sure of as the overflow (when the cap blows) running down the side of the expansion tank seemed to be weeping.. so was wondering if the cap was screwed too...
Bit of a mystery really.... maybe as Mike suggested its just air... and one of those things....
I'd be surprised if the head was the issue... any more suggestions?
Thanks
Steve
I'd suggest getting a new radiator for 1, then flush and re-bleed...
But sooner, rather than later, its going to need a head gasket.
Intermittent suggests under load its unable to shed its heat loading.
Find a big hill, go for a decent hard run up it...
Any coolant loss = head coming off motor time...
Thanks Mike
He did give it a bit of left foot (4000+rpm) up a reasonable hill (not too many close to me) probably about a minute climb... which is when the temp picked to 93... then dropped once he hit the top...
Nick has had the Rad flushed but i'm not sure how effective it is...
Coolant loss i'm still not convinced about... until its flushed refilled and refilled several times more as the air bleeds out i dont think anyone can make a call on it losing anything.. i know it took about 5 top ups and about 3 or 4 days for the defender to settle... and i spend ages when filling it trying to bleed everything out...
He also mentioned that he gave it a pasting in the dunes at the weekend after doing the harness and it didnt play up... i would of thought that sand would of loaded it up quite well?
I hope for Nicks sake it isnt the head... but.. as he said... he's willing to do it and doesnt mind as he plans on keeping it.
Thanks
Steve
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