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Thread: When coolant goes bad....

  1. #1
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    When coolant goes bad....

    it sucks.

    TD5. Losing coolant in dribbles over time. Finally started to become more apparant as it started to rise in temp when being driven. Twice the ECU limited the engine when the temp started to go up, but upon reducing revs to idle, we would drop back to normal.

    First time, there was an obvious lack of coolant. Second time I had topped up prior to the journey home, and when the temp started to go up, I knew it should not be a severe lack of coolant unless a major leak had occured.

    Getting home i followed the advice of the learned who had followed Eileens thread on cooling issues, and tested the top pipe for pressure. All good, still some give. At that point I looked down a eye spied coolant dumping on the ground.

    Under the car I could see it coming off the pipe leadi9ng out of the coolant pump. Ahaa, split hose I thought. Easy fix. Got a hose and launched into the fix. Got the old hose off, and discovered it perfectly normal and unworn.

    Hmmm. Figured I'd clean up the nozel from the coolant pump, as there was a reasonable amount of gundgy build up on it. Scraping away on this and whatho.., the screwdriver punches through the side of the nozel to expose this....




    This is supposed to be the result of 10 odd years of wear and tear, plus a reasonable amount of tap water going thru the coolant system. Quite common in TD5's at some point. Presumably, the loss had been a dribble while the gundge had partially blocked it. When the temp went up , and the pressure increased in the system, particularly after I had refilled, it probably blew it open.

    Good news is that while LR are not noted for their forward thinking, they do sell the back plate, (pictured part) for the coolant pump separately, for around the $70 mark.

    So not an absolute disaster, and very fixable if you remove the centrifugal oil filter first, but definitely worth a look, or thought if you're experiencing coolant loss or other temp related issues.

    cheers
    Nick

  2. #2
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    what colour was the coolant?

    and how much tap water?

    If you need to add fluid to a D2 its trying to tell you something
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
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    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
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    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
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  3. #3
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    If your waterpump inlet looks like that, you might want to strip off the oil cooler and have a look at the matrix. Because chances are it will look the same, and if it fails you will be stranded next to the road as the sump gets emptied into the cooling system in a matter of seconds...which results in a loss of oil pressure and you could do very expensive damage to your engine.
    This happend to me and I was very fortunate to not have been driving the car on the road at the time.
    How old are your coolant hoses, perhaps its time for a bit of a cooling system overhaul, new hoses, water pump and oil cooler inspection...seeing as the car is getting up there in the years.

  4. #4
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    The products of all that corrosion over 10 years are also now deposited in your radiator. Maybe time for a cooling system birthday.
    2024 RRS on the road
    2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hendrik View Post
    If your waterpump inlet looks like that, you might want to strip off the oil cooler and have a look at the matrix. Because chances are it will look the same, and if it fails you will be stranded next to the road as the sump gets emptied into the cooling system in a matter of seconds...which results in a loss of oil pressure and you could do very expensive damage to your engine.
    This happend to me and I was very fortunate to not have been driving the car on the road at the time.
    How old are your coolant hoses, perhaps its time for a bit of a cooling system overhaul, new hoses, water pump and oil cooler inspection...seeing as the car is getting up there in the years.

    X2!!
    and dont be surprised when the head gasket waves goodbye also. IMO its just a matter of "when" rather than "if".
    All of your aluminium alloy components are suffering a similar fate in the darkness of your engine.

    sorry

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hastykiwi;1223480


    This is supposed to be the result of 10 odd years of wear and tear, plus a reasonable amount of[B
    tap water [/B]going thru the coolant system. Quite common in TD5's at some point. Presumably, the loss had been a dribble while the gundge had partially blocked it. When the temp went up , and the pressure increased in the system, particularly after I had refilled, it probably blew it open.
    Tap water... ouch.. no wonder!

    Distilled water only please! and dont forget the red OAT coolant... the amount of discos / deefers i see with the green stuff in.. and its not like i work on them daily!

    I only use tap water for flushing... then fill with distilled.. its only about 12 bucks for 20l....

    Thanks

    Steve

  7. #7
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    Guys,

    thanks for the added insight. Fortunately the radiator is only a year old, so corrosion there should not be an issue, however i take the point about the depositing of material, a will flush away tommorrow.

    As for the oil cooler, I will investigate this at the same time.

    the tap water comment, was something suggested to me as a common cause of this. I have not used tap water since owning it, but, I couldnt tell you what went thru it for the first seven years.

    Thanks all though for taking the time to post...

    always appreciated.

    cheers
    Nick

  8. #8
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    that is a real bugger Nick but I was recently warned to 'run don't walk' from any d2 with green coolant in it by a well respected Landy mech. Good you got it before it went completely pear shaped.

  9. #9
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    Using green coolant is not a problem if it is done correctly. If the system is flushed totally and a cleaner used it causes no problems, but if coolants are mixed there will be nothing but problems. they blow radiators, hoses, heater cores, coolers, ETC. Must be cleaned well before using green coolant.

  10. #10
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    i've found corrosion like that to be more common in vehicles that dont get thier coolant changed regularly, my XR8 and a friends '92 GT falcon have clocked up ~600,000 between them, both have been maintained to a high standard and you can still see the macine marks on the cast alloy components of the cooling systems.......

    his EB fairmont, on the other hand, seems to have been neglected and the thermostat housing and water pump were both in very bad shape

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