replacement Ignition barrels

**alpick** · 13th August 2011, 07:56 AM

Hi DM

Yep you have the dreaded "sticky wafer" problem.

do a search for the complete info

short version, your lock is on the way out and at some stage the tap will no longer get you out of trouble.

When I paid $300 for a locksmith to get me going he used and reccomended "inox" spray lube, not graphite and definitely not WD40.

for that price he reco'ed my barrel wafers, lucky I was in metro sydney close to a specialist who knew the D2 problem.

Get it attended to before you get stuck I say.

cheers

Al

**igould** · 3rd September 2011, 08:32 AM

So, can anyone recommend a locksmith in Melb (pref Eastern suburbs) who can fix/refurb/D1 the barrel at reasonable price?

Ian

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 3rd September 2011, 08:42 AM

I thought the D1 barrels were significantly cheaper than D2 ones(though identical)or has craft struck

If its a keeper Ian, I'd price a new one too----

**clubagreenie** · 3rd September 2011, 04:41 PM

They are about 1/3 to 1/4 price

**igould** · 10th September 2011, 03:42 PM

Just done mine. Pretty easy.
Got a new D1 barrel from British 4WD on ebay for $165 plus postage. Arrived in under 48 hrs.
Got Lock King at Bayswater to re-key it to the original keys.
About 1 hr to remove old and fit new. Works perfectly.
Whole thing done for under $250. Pretty pleased with myself.

Ian

**chrisduryea** · 1st October 2011, 06:07 PM

I did this also and worked well. There is now a tutorial in the projects section for anyone thinking of doing this. Cheers Chris

**igould** · 2nd October 2011, 06:37 AM

Originally Posted by chrisduryea

I did this also and worked well. There is now a tutorial in the projects section for anyone thinking of doing this. Cheers Chris

Well done Chris.
It really was easy to do. Much easier than I ever expected, and should be easier still now that there are photos to show people what everything looks like.
I found the slowest part of the whole process was trying to work out what bits and pieces the workshop manual was referring to. You've solved that problem.
Actually, the slowest part was waiting for the new barrel to be re-keyed.
Anyway, good job.

Ian

**alpick** · 24th October 2011, 03:42 PM

Make sure you buy the GENUINE land rover D1 ign barrel.

The aftermarket one I got from Rimmer Bros (Brit part £48) has a very slightly different key profile and the original land rover key from the D2 does not fit into the barrel properly, (there is friction that should not be there when you push the key in locksmith recommended not to use it).

The one I bought would work fine if you did not want use your Original profile keys from the D2 in it.

That'll teach me to be a El Cheapo.

**igould** · 24th October 2011, 08:46 PM

Originally Posted by alpick

The aftermarket one I got from Rimmer Bros (Brit part £48) has a very slightly different key profile and the original land rover key from the D2 does not fit into the barrel properly, (there is friction that should not be there when you push the key in locksmith recommended not to use it).

I've found the same thing. It's been a bit tight to get in often, but no all the time. Considering the price difference, I'm happy to put up with it.

**Ollie** · 25th October 2011, 10:06 AM

Hi When did the coded key come in on the D2 mine is Dec 2001, the locksmith said he may be able to clone the key and code, when they checked it the machine showed no code just a key with remote. So is the machine not reading the code or are the early D2s not fitted with a coded key?
Thanks

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