Thread: New Rear Bar - mutts nuts!

Very nice...you could sell those!

Very impressive looking bar there Kieren and justfishing - well done.

Looks even better than an original bumper I reckon, and the way you have done the lettering is spot on and sets the whole thing off.

As for your exhaust tip - I'd try cutting it off about 1½ - 2 inches from the muffler and then fitting a straight chrome tip with angled end / outlet, cut to length and the mounting angle that you want. I wouldn't think that cutting the exhaust pipe with an angle grinder would cause any problem with oveheating, but if this is a concern, there is a disk you can buy at Bunnings for your angle grinder that is a diamond tipped cutting blade for metals. Looks more like a small version of a timber cutting circular saw blade, but designed specifically for metal. I've got one that I use mainly for cutting aluminium checker plate sheeting, but also works on steel and generates very little heat as it cuts very quickly. One thing though - you need to hang onto your angle grinder pretty tightly when using these - they can bite into the metal and jump about pretty savagely if you're not used to them. Would cut through an arm or a leg much faster than a conventional cutting disk.

Originally Posted by AussieAub

Now, has anyone any tips on how to shorten and raise my tailpipe to stop it from dragging, and also to improve aesthetically? It looks very droopy now!
I had thought about just using the angle grinder, but a bit concerned about setting fire (internally) to the rear muffler.

Great work on the rear bar, hopefully mine can look even half as good when it is done.

Anyway, here is an option for your exhaust. I folded mine and crushed it so had the local exhasut shop bend up a new pipe. It is not the neatest or best work and the bends arent mandrel etc. but it does the job and cost me around $100.

This is only a temporary fix for me as when I eventually get around to welding up the rear bar I am going to outlet the exhaust through the bar, that way there is plenty of clearance and there is no chance of catching the tip when reversing off-road and folding it again.

Originally Posted by CJT

Great work on the rear bar, hopefully mine can look even half as good when it is done.

Cheers mate!

Anyway, here is an option for your exhaust. I folded mine and crushed it so had the local exhasut shop bend up a new pipe. It is not the neatest or best work and the bends arent mandrel etc. but it does the job and cost me around $100.

How do you find it with no rear box?

This is only a temporary fix for me as when I eventually get around to welding up the rear bar I am going to outlet the exhaust through the bar, that way there is plenty of clearance and there is no chance of catching the tip when reversing off-road and folding it again.

That's what I originally had in mind too, but the profile of the new bar stops way before I could get the exhaust to exit through it = less overhang.
May just cut back at 45 degrees, about 2 inches from box, as suggested earlier.

Cheers,

..:: KIEREN ::..
2000 Disco II Auto V8
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