Hello again,
Thanks for the tips so far.
Just to put my query into a little more into perspective. I recently collided with another vehicle. I was stationary at the the time but legally it was deemed to be my fault. Part of my comprehensive insurance criteria are that my vehicle is considered to be in a roadworthy condition. I had an 'off the record' roadworthy carried out to make sure that I would be covered by my insurance company. The roadworthy issuer stated that "if the EGR is removed, bypassed or its working state altered that the vehicle would be deemed unroadworthy",(This is in Victoria)
Hence my query as to have the EGR looking like it works on the outside but internally castrated. ( I had a removal kit on, but had to refit the EGR for insurance inspection, Luckily I hadn't thrown it out)
Cheers,
Jason
G'day all,put egr kit in yesterday (03 disco),what a difference!!!!,idles smooth when cold now and has more low and midrange torque,exhaust smells better and sounds throatier.!!!!What about the crap build-up in the valve and intake manifold??'that can't be doing the donk any good,or your oil quality???? Did oil change as well so it'll be interesting to see how longer oil stays clean,I know it's been said doze ns of times before,but,JUST DO IT!!!!! Off to measure my bump stops,Iwant my old tdi turning circle ,Hooroo for now.![]()
Hi,
So I'm guessing by putting in a "kit" - you've removed the EGR valve complete and replaced it with the cylinderical 'mod' that is available and blanked off the manifold??
Q1 - What did you do about the vacuum line/s - Plug it/them?
Q2 - Did you remove the EGR pipe that runs round the front of the engine(Pre EU3) and just blank off the manifold with the supplied plate?
Q3 - If you have an EU3 model - did you leave the heat exchanger intact and just removed the pipework?
Sorry for the Q&A session it's just that I'm keen to do the same and don't want to leave any loose ends (Vacuum lines etc) that may affect the smooth running of the engine.
BTW - I'm not concerned about insurance issuesjust engine efficiency!
Sorry for the hijack!Rip it all out! Its pretty simple.
Blank off the manifold, remove the "cooler" (2 or 3 bolts), put on the new inlet tube. Remove the vacuum lines. 1 from the t-piece near the inlet manifold, the other which runs across the radiator to the air inlet. Remove the actuators behind the coolant overflow. Blank the t piece on the line from the vacuum pump, and blank the inlet on the airbox.
Then behold the nice clear clean engine block![]()
Hi Disco1469
Have been planning to do the same to my D2a. If you don't mind me asking where did you get your kit? I pretty well know who all the suppliers are both local and o/s but I'm not sure they all cover the EU3 version with the cooler altho' TD5 Alive in UK do advertise one.
Cheers
Discolaw
G'day Discolaw,just got home from nightshift ,still smiling due to happy engine!!! I got mine from -Landrover Tuning.com.au.,chose that one because pipe is one piece of turned alloy ,not welded(i'm sure welded ones are fine but :m just a bit anal about some things!!!!probably why i'm still single??????) .Kit has one blanking plate and 2 silicone plugs to put on solenoids where the two vac liines were(one if u have the old egr valve) I left cooler and solenoids in place ,makes no difference to outcome,just couldn't be bothered and removing allen head bolts on exhaust manifold can be tricky ,plus youndont have to plug-revmove coolant hoses from cooler,also engine looks stock (apart from missing egr??,honestly officer,it just fell off!!!!!!) It's really up to you how much to remove but this kit does both unless you are tossing all control gear.,took 3 days for delivery and 1hour to put in,car and owner very happy,maybe ECU stage 1 flash next?.(after tires)Ps,thanks to all for stories and tips!
Cheers from the Desert
Rexy
2000 130 TD5
Oil in the Harness, suspension knock, transmission clunk, engine oil leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, centrifugal oil filter stripped bolts, a/c leaks, door leaks, wouldn't trade it for the world
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